Super frustrating session

[fevahdawg]

Just got back from my 4th ever winter surf sesh in NJ. I gotta say, I’m pretty not psyched right now. Every wave I tried to go for I didn’t catch. Yeah, 0 waves. I was also have some trouble breathing along with feeling extremely nauseous and arms that felt like wet noodles. Every wave I almost caught, I was noticing I was right on the top of the wave, which combined of how tired I was mean’t I was not paddling enough or was positioned wrong. I used a 6’2 puddle jumper (groveller) in pretty steep waves for today, so could that make taking the drop a little more difficult? And from what I’m saying should I go a size up for when I go again? Its just extremely disappointing to get worked just to get no waves.

[waikikikichan]

1) How many other surfers were out at your particular break that day ?

2) What size / type boards were they riding ?

3) Are you kicking with your feet while paddling with your arms ?

[fevahdawg]

1. There were around 5-6 not including me out at the time

2. It was 50/50, some where using shortboards, some midlengths and longboards

3. I was paddling furiously and I was kicking.

[waikikikichan]

I was paddling furiously

And yet you still couldn’t get on. Don’t paddle harder, paddle smarter.

Question: are you gritting your teeth and cupping your hands ?

[fevahdawg]

I was doing both, but it’s hard to say how often because I was exhausted when I got out the back. Fortunately, even just popping up on the board for a attempted wave, it all feels very natural. Because the waves were head high and semi hollow, I was finding myself hesitating, which causes me when I pop up to go into a low squat.

[OldSalt]

I've had a few sessions like this of late, too, as my board is quite undervolumed for me now that I am 8KG heavier. (So I just invested in a new board after many years, and went waaay up in volume to compensate). But the real clincher is where you said hesitating on the take off. You have to paddle hard and get down the face. As soon as you hesitate you either fall off the back, or go over with the lip. It is way safer to paddle hard and get down the face. The last time I hesitated I went over and got a fin to the shin. Again, I also do this often! Also, once I get back out into the lineup I always take a moment to get some energy back before paddling for another wave. Otherwise I am likely to just fall. Good luck with your next session !

[OldSalt]

I've had a few sessions like this of late, too, as my board is quite undervolumed for me now that I am 8KG heavier. (So I just invested in a new board after many years, and went waaay up in volume to compensate). But the real clincher is where you said hesitating on the take off. You have to paddle hard and get down the face. As soon as you hesitate you either fall off the back, or go over with the lip. It is way safer to paddle hard and get down the face. The last time I hesitated I went over and got a fin to the shin. Again, I also do this often! Also, once I get back out into the lineup I always take a moment to get some energy back before paddling for another wave. Otherwise I am likely to just fall. Good luck with your next session !

[dtc]

To catch a wave you need to be in a position to slide down the face. Its not the power of the wave that gives you that first burst of speed, its gravity. So you need to be on the slope, heading down.

If you arent in the right place then its either paddling or positioning (or both). You say you are paddling hard, so that suggests you are starting from the wrong place ie too far back. You arent giving yourself the ability to get to the right place, because you need to (for example) paddle 15m but you only have time to paddle 12m. You almost get there but not quite.

So first option is start closer to the beach. Second option is to start paddling earlier, although that is actually harder as you need to be able to predict the wave earlier as well, and that takes a lot of experience.

Hesitating on take off may be another issue (or even the main issue). In the thread linked below, scroll down to Nick Carroll's comments (he is a surfing writer/brother of Tom Carroll and worth listening to) where he discusses "Horizontal Paddling Syndrome" ie you are happy to paddle when horizontal (flat) but, as soon as you start tilting downhill, you stop paddling because its uncomfortable.

http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19224

But... for me, anyway, reminding yourself that its gravity which lets you take off, that you need to be going downhill to use gravity, helps your mind accept that going downhill is a good thing.

Of course, make sure you are doing all the basics right - properly positioned on the board, head looking up

Also have a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4gLT28ZVpQ and in particular the comments (yes, youtube comments are actually useful!). Martin Dunn does a great job of explaining the issue in the first comment

[waikikikichan]

I was doing both ( gritting your teeth and cupping your hands ),

And that's why you have:
1) some trouble breathing along with feeling extremely nauseous and arms that felt like wet noodles.
2) every wave I almost caught, I was noticing I was right on the top of the wave.

Don't look for trying to buy/get another board to fix the rider's problems ( although you shouldn't be on a 6'2" to begin with ) You need to learn how to paddle. If you don't learn, you'll always have problems getting on and making the drop no matter what board you use.

[jaffa1949]

Let’s cover a few issues about winter surfing
1 cold, you are colder muscles are not as elastic, air is colder, you havelock paddle against the constriction of even the best wetsuit.
2 You are lacking surf conditioning and on an unsuitable size board, if you were out of breath just getting out the back, your fitness is poor and your paddling poor.

3 You need two primary things to catch a wave ( winter or summer).
POSITIONING after reading where and how the waves are breaking, recognising where to be to have the easiest take offs.
MATCHING OR BEING ABLE EXCEED THE SPEED OF THE WAVE in a short paddle on burst, ( Poor technique will not give this)
You need to paddle on and down the wave any less and you flop off the back this done by matching wave speed.

You are probably scared.of pearling and are too far back on your board.
Lots going wrong, good news is all successful surfers went through this.
Waikikikichan and DTC also offer sound advice see what you can change !

[IB_Surfer]

I use a shortboard up to head high, then a step up on anything up to 10ft faces.

[fevahdawg]

Thanks for the advice, and I’ll be sure to read what they have to say. In terms of board choice, should I go back to my 7’0 minimal until cold season is over?

[IB_Surfer]

Thanks for the advice, and I’ll be sure to read what they have to say. In terms of board choice, should I go back to my 7’0 minimal until cold season is over?

nope, you need a step-up board. A bigger shortboard for bigger waves. I use a 6'5 and sometimes a 6'8 stepup depending on conditions, try investing in a new board that would be good for bigger days but is still small enough to duckdive and makign turns in. Always think of the right board for the conditions, save the minimal for ankle slappers.

[Lebowski]

I don't think someone that sounds like a relative beginner needs a step up board. Go back to the mini mal. You should be able to catch the wave earlier before it gets too steep.

When I was surfing more regularly I used to ride a 7'6 Spider mini mal in almost everything upto about head and a half high. Learn to turtle roll well, and minimise the time you spend getting back on the board and you can usually get out quicker than someone on a shortboard. You can catch everything and really maximise the time spent on each wave, which gives you time to actually learn to position yourself correctly on the wave rather than wasting time fighting against a board that is too small, and generally having much shorter rides.

[fevahdawg]

Well, I can say this, I’m not a beginner. I can actually go down the line, etc. But I do agree with staying in smaller surf for the rest of the cold.

[jaffa1949]

Well, I can say this, I’m not a beginner. I can actually go down the line, etc. But I do agree with staying in smaller surf for the rest of the cold.

Fevahdawg, no matter how you rub it you are a beginner, there is absolutely no shame in this every surfer has been there, what is really valuable is to recognise this and build on a clear base.

I got over myself ,very experienced, ridden all around the world recovery from cancer laid me low, could perform not at beginner level. So I had to begin again, the realism of what I had to face was very daunting, but no thought of giving up!
Back to kneeboard surfing, there I am equal in the line up, what is not lost is my reading the line up, positioning for waves, positive attitude, kneeling in my case is not submission but continuation.

You are where we have all been

[fevahdawg]

I’ll have trouble accepting that, but its true that I’ve been surfing for two years (which isn’t that long at all) But just to add, during the summer, I had no problem catching waves on a board about a foot bigger with no wetsuit. However, in terms of winter surfing, I 100% agree with being a beginner. What are some good routines, like HIIT for building paddling stamina?

[waikikikichan]

What are some good routines, like HIIT for building paddling stamina?

Answer: ............... Go Surf !

But like I said earlier about gritting your teeth and cupping your hands, try going out for a run down the block, but hold your breath and clinch your fist tight. You'll get tired faster. Now relax, breath naturally and take smooth strides. You can run longer.

I’ll have trouble accepting that, but its true that I’ve been surfing for two years

I truly beleive the most improvement comes after the first 3 years. BUT .......... since you went down in board size way too early, it will take much longer. You haven't built up a strong base of the basics ( e.g. your lack of paddle stamina and technique )

[fevahdawg]

I also just would like to say that isn’t a beginner surfer someone who doesn’t do anything but ride in the whitewater? Or maybe I’m just reading online too much. I’m sorry about all the questions, I’m just a tiny bit disappointed being called a beginner, even though I shouldn’t be

[waikikikichan]

Believe what you want to about your own level of surfing. Main thing, what ever level you’re at, is that you’re having fun , and not at someone else’s expense.

But let me tell you this, here in Japan, licensed Pros can be beat by Amateur girls in Hawaii. It’s all relative.

So your thinking is a beginner is those people who ride only ( mainly )in the whitewater. So you must think you’re an “intermediate” level ( since you can ride along the face on green waves ). So what will it take to be “average” stage ? Just trying to grasp you thought process, since everyone thinks differently.