by Big H » Mon Apr 02, 2018 12:30 pm
by waikikikichan » Mon Apr 02, 2018 6:20 pm
by oldmansurfer » Tue Apr 03, 2018 1:17 am
by waikikikichan » Tue Apr 03, 2018 1:19 am
by jet528 » Tue Apr 03, 2018 2:20 am
by oldmansurfer » Tue Apr 03, 2018 2:23 am
by dtc » Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:22 am
jet528 wrote:It looked like this last week low tide.. (high tide isn't any better though![]()
)
I guess it's safer to have spam musubi at the beach than to be in the water
by jet528 » Tue Apr 03, 2018 6:35 am
dtc wrote: If you are standing and having the face collapse under you, then probably you arent in the right position ie you are caught up in/on the lip.
So you need to be slightly closer to the beach when the wave catches you ie the wave is slightly more curved (a 'later drop' in the parlance). This is likely either due to you sitting too far back before you start or not being at the right speed when the wave reaches you (paddling) and being sucked up the face a little bit.
It seems easier to sit further back and paddle onto the wave, but if you are too high up the face when it catches you then that is actually bad.
by waikikikichan » Tue Apr 03, 2018 7:17 am
jet528 wrote:I am often on the lip and fall with the lip while it hits the water. Does this mean I am popping up too early? So to avoid this, I should paddle a bit more and pop up when the wave is slightly breaking/about to break and glide down the face, so I won't be high up there?
by dtc » Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:53 am
jet528 wrote:Let me try to visualise what you said..Forgive this beginner here!
I am often on the lip and fall with the lip while it hits the water. Does this mean I am popping up too early? So to avoid this, I should paddle a bit more and pop up when the wave is slightly breaking/about to break and glide down the face, so I won't be high up there? Also, "sit further back" means my position on the board? Thankyou!!
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