by pmcaero » Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:12 pm
by oldmansurfer » Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:14 pm
by drowningbitbybit » Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:17 pm
pmcaero wrote: near shore dump conditions
by oldmansurfer » Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:32 pm
by pmcaero » Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:47 pm
drowningbitbybit wrote:
Incidentally - a 7'9 mini-mal is a hard board to use on these kinds of waves. A longboard can get in early, a shortboard you can just throw over the falls, but a 7'9 mini-mal doesn't get in early enough, and then isn't the right shape for a late drop. For a late, steep drop, rocker makes a huge difference.
by dtc » Wed Mar 18, 2015 10:19 am
by oldmansurfer » Wed Mar 18, 2015 5:12 pm
by drowningbitbybit » Thu Mar 19, 2015 4:59 am
oldmansurfer wrote: positioning is the most important thing.
by benjl » Thu Mar 19, 2015 9:05 am
by oldmansurfer » Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:17 pm
drowningbitbybit wrote:oldmansurfer wrote: positioning is the most important thing.
...and commitment.
by oldmansurfer » Thu Mar 19, 2015 6:12 pm
by oldmansurfer » Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:02 pm
“I think once you break that barrier of learning how to commit into the waves, that’s when everything changes. When I was little I remember paddling for a few waves and getting stuck in the hesitation and getting so worked you know you don’t want to do that again. Once you get over that barrier of not hesitating – committing 100% – that’s when everything changes. Once I was able to do that, the whole wave changed for me. Being able to go and see a bigger one and knowing you want it… when you make it, it’s the best feeling in the world.”
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