today I decided to conquer my fear of dropping

[pmcaero]

...and almost got impaled by my fins as the board flipped end over end with me on top.

[drowningbitbybit]

Ah well, try try try again!

Sounds like you went all out and went for the vertical drop? There is a middle ground that you might like to explore

[pmcaero]

hehe indeed, as the tide was coming in it was transitioning towards a shore-dump.
I was at the end of the sesh, frustrated after seeing all these people shredding while I only caught one wave.

[dtc]

This is easier said than done, but if you are ever in that position again, see if you can just kick your board away (straighten your legs and push the board out from underneath you). Or try to throw yourself back (or forward) as you fall a bit so you dont go straight down (on top of your board) but fall backwards and most of your body misses the board Hopefully. (just throwing your head back often works just enough to achieve this). Anything, really, that

But, yeah, it happens. This is why I always sand back my fin edges so they arent sharp enough to cut (the back of the fin is often the worst). I'm sure it affects performance by 5% or something, but no issue for me since I'm only at 15% of the fin's performance capacity, if that, and most of that 15% is because I'm a heavy bugger. Anyway, still hurts and bruises, but doesnt cut (google 'fin cuts' if you want to see some gruesome examples - the wet suit doesnt always protect)

[oldmansurfer]

I think you acquire board avoiding reflexes over the years. I do several of them. I like to kick my board forward when wiping out under some control. Other wise I dive to the side of the board usually away from the board. In really intense drops where the wave has a hold of me I maintain contact with the board by tip toeing or whatever else I can do so I can make a last second decision to kick the board away or dive to the side. Sometimes things happen out of your control. Mostly I have been very lucky

[pmcaero]

most of the time I am able to anticipate a pitched lip and abort, or throw my board forward....but yesterday I really wanted to freaking make the drop after chickening out numerous times.

I noticed one thing though, please confirm....but shortboarders don't have this problem as much as, as the wave pitches, because of lower buoyancy, they are already somewhere under the lip.

[oldmansurfer]

shortboarders chicken out too LOL I think you can learn to use any board if you have the motivation. A short board narrows the area that you can take off on a wave and there are long board design features that make taking a steep drop easier. As far as getting injured by your fins I have been injured by my shortboards fins and my wife quit surfing because of a injury from her fins. I think you need to work on your conditioning and arm strength that is what will get you into waves at the end of a session.

[dtc]

most shortboarders are good surfers. Thats why they can ride shortboards. In fact, as a shortboarder you have to do a later drop and more chance of getting pitched if you are slightly wrong.

I know what you mean about just having to do it. My last surf everything was closing out and not even in a way that allowed a surf down the face straight. Just rear up and dump. By the end of the frustrating session I was thinking 'I'll just catch one anyway and see what happens'. Picked a smaller wave and tried it out. Yeah, not pretty.

[jaffa1949]

most of the time I am able to anticipate a pitched lip and abort, or throw my board forward..

PM you are not ready to take on anything that pitches yet or enter a crowded surf situation, throwing your board is not an option you need to get your wave judgement skills improved, choose a more accommodating break or peak where you can work on your whole raft of skills. I'm being blunt in my approach to your surfing but your posts tell me you need to just work on having basic fun at basic skills level.

One reason you are not getting any leaway from other surfers is you haven't got the skill to assert yourself yet!

Re-read all you recent posts and see the picture you present in the surf! harsh but true!
Now the good news........... You will improve you will hone those skills and take your rightful place in the line up!
So many others in your situation don't ask the questions , you are going to get it, stay stoked

[pmcaero]

Oh sorry, I did not explain properly. I didn't mean ditch the board, merely quickly sliding back such that I don't pearl.
I'd only ditch the board as a last resort, I'm not that clueless.
Also, I don't see any better way to get better than to put myself in situations a bit above my level....I try hard not to be in the way of others in the water but it does belong to everyone equally

[jaffa1949]

That's a fair response PM, yes I agree too that as we progress we need to try the more challenging breaks and waves.
Theoretically the waves belong to everyone equally BUT not everyone plays it that way Secondly there is a perceived skill hierachy, at least in the egos of some.
Quick rapid shorebreaks are hard but they are a great training ground, when you start to work them you learn quick responses and the ability to pull into barrels knowing full well they are going to shut down on you, cures fear of wipeouts and teaches steep drop skill and confidence.
In spite of what I have said, persevere but I still recommend getting your basics tuned more.

[pmcaero]

Thank you for the encouragement Jaffa.

Being that we don't often get above 3ft here, it becomes a matter of trying to make the most of the bigger days whenever they come. I feel fairly confident of my skills in smaller surf and use those days to practice specific maneuvers.....but it's just not the same exposure to what I consider "real surfing" as tackling bigger surf on a day when the local cream of the crop is out shredding.

[SoCalSurfing]

Hi,

After I cut myself, I just decided to instal the "softer" fins:

http://www.surfcohawaii.com/Pro-Teck-Fins-s/26.htm

Why risk it for 2% performance improvement, I'm not a pro, who cares!

[dtc]

Pro Teck fins are good - I put a set of the 2+1 performance fins in my first (learners) longboard 'just in case' and I then swapped the side bites to my now regular board (with a centre non Pro Teck fin - only because they didnt make the centre fin in the size I wanted). You do notice a little bit of difference but its just a slight adjustment, not anything dramatic. I think they are a great idea, and the softer edges are not only safer but less likely to be damaged from rocks etc. And they are priced around the same as normal fins - the only downside is finding them in your local shop (but you can order online if you dont need something in a hurry)