Getting worked repeatedly

[Sandkrab]

Right on boys! Stoked to here all of the input and am certainly sure that I need a new board to really improve on other aspects instead of just trying to force this grovy to work for me. I'm just going to have to put in some more OT and find a new one. i guess I underestimated the length and planing surface\rocker and overemphasized shear volume.. Really not thinking the length was as important as the volume. I guess if I'm going to start saving up, might as well go pyzel, any recommendations? Also, my home break is a steep, hollow beach break, making the grovy boards I'm assuming very difficult to ride.. This also makes the 5-8 so sketchy, even on the ones I catch I know I could use some more rocker.

And that is an epic point Big H.. Like I said, I know that it's been Much more difficult than need be, just trying to go ahead on the best route.

[waikikikichan]

I guess if I'm going to start saving up, might as well go pyzel, any recommendations?

You mean John John Florence's shaper Pyzel ? I was just outside his factory yesterday while picking up my new board from Carl Schaper.

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[oldmansurfer]

After you get used to a board with rocker in steep waves then a flat board won't be too much more difficult. Once you get used to a longer board in steep waves a shorter one shouldn't be too difficult unless it's too short. I think tail rocker is the most important aspect for riding steep walled waves but I am currently riding a board with little rocker and if find it fun and fast in steep waves up to double overhead. There are skills in riding steep waves and once you accumulate a bunch of them you can probably use a lot of boards on steep fast waves. Most important is knowing where to lineup and which waves to catch and which to let go but other skills such as paddling and popping up and controlling the pitch yaw and roll of the board on takeoff (using aviator terms for lack of surfing terms) are also important.

[Sandkrab]

Best thing I did was post on here boys, the help has been real and it's so sick to see a community work to help each other! As far as pyzels, that's sick man, he's a phenomenal shaper and if I had to spend the money and invest in a new board, I would like it to be one I am proud of and can use for awhile! I guess it all comes down to what shortboard shape of his would best suit me.
I think the move to a little longer board would really open my abilities on this grovy as well! Those are great points about rocker and wave steepness too, the ones around here on a good day are pretty gnarly, but for the majority of the time when's it's mushy, the grovy is the way to go.

[Big H]

I am going to contribute one more time......

....don't spend money on a sick shaper....don't spend too much at all; buy secondhand. Get something that is decidedly not sick and will not enhance your image at all. Then sell it and get another used board until you learn to ride well enough to justify dropping big coin on a sick board that will enhance your sick skills......reference the foamie beach boy riders I was talking about....they shred on foamies...ride switch, get barrelled, pump down the line, big steep waves off the top, floaters.....it isn't the board; in fact a sick board with low rails and low volume is going to hinder you.


....that is unless it is about looking good on the beach.....if it is, then I get that; I was single 100 years ago too...

But if you want to learn to surf, don't worry about your image....one look at your paddle and you're found out anyway....

[oldmansurfer]

if I had to spend the money and invest in a new board, I would like it to be one I am proud of and can use for awhile! .

The real trick is can you use it. If you can't catch waves you aren't learning to surf. A board isn't going to make you a better surfer even if it is the best board in the world. It's time spent in the ocean catching waves that makes you a good surfer. Each board has pluses and minuses for each surfer but it's different for each surfer. The trick is to find one that allows you to learn at your current skill level in the waves you are surfing. This is why I like custom made surfboards for myself. They are made for me at my age/fitness/skills/weight waves I surf.

[Big H]

if I had to spend the money and invest in a new board, I would like it to be one I am proud of and can use for awhile! .

The real trick is can you use it. If you can't catch waves you aren't learning to surf. A board isn't going to make you a better surfer even if it is the best board in the world. It's time spent in the ocean catching waves that makes you a good surfer. Each board has pluses and minuses for each surfer but it's different for each surfer. The trick is to find one that allows you to learn at your current skill level in the waves you are surfing. This is why I like custom made surfboards for myself. They are made for me at my age/fitness/skills/weight waves I surf.

I buy used and do the same thing as far as age/fitness/skills etc in terms of board matching.....I'm improving so I chew em up and spit em out when I'm done and then go get something else.


BTW....no idea about what being proud of a surfboard has to do with anything....


....and though I'm still a newish surfer, that whole concept of having JUST one board.................well.........

[oldmansurfer]

Well Big H I bet my shaper knows more about board design than you do

[Big H]

Of course he does (knows more about board design)....not challenging that point at all......costs more too.

My point is as a growing and developing surfer (myself and the OP among thousands), needs keep changing....buying used I can get something that is useable for what I need more or less....it isn't exact, custom fit by a shaper....then I use it. At this point I'm not staying in one place too long so more or less is good enough. Maybe in a couple of years going to a custom shaper will be the move; until then I'll just be throwing money away as my technique, learning what I enjoy and what I want out of surfing as well as what specific breaks I frequent and enjoy the most as well as my style takes shape. Also, if a board doesn't really work out it is quickly sold and replaced with something that might work better.

[oldmansurfer]

I think you surf reef breaks that makes that method much more reasonable but my boards are made more durable than off the shelf performance boards and..................they don't make off the shelf board performance boards for 62 year old out of shape overweight guys