Surfer spent 45 mins paddling out on Ocean beach

[BaNZ]

With a thick wetsuit like that, I don't think I can even paddle that much for over 10 minutes nor would I even attempt to get in the water. He/she seriously is dedicated to getting out.

[BoMan]

I've never tried to surf there but have watched from the shore. In addition to the heavy shoredump, the longshore currents (parallel to the beach) are very strong and drag most surfers out of position. Chapter 8 of Finnegan's Barbarian Days describes what it's like. (Thanks to Billie Morini for my copy!)

[ConcreteVitamin]

Barbarian Days is a great read. Check out "Playing Doc's Game" too.

[LostAtSea]

That is sooo heavy. Amazing waves.

[IanCaio]

That's a lot of will, I imagine how tempting it was to give up when he was already paddling for 30 minutes and could still see those set bombs meters away