A week of s*'@ surfing

[Prancing monkey]

Wow, managed to turn a promising week into a period of surfing purgatory.

Took the longboard in twice last Thursday. Shouldn't have bothered as was 5sec 2-3ft wind chop. Big secondary smashing up the primary. Basically standing up and crossing fingers. All I caught was a nasty head cold.

On Friday took out the hybrid with some xl twin fins on. Had a great two weeks in slow, clean knee high surf but struggled n waist high, steeper stuff in our local harbour. Lost a contact lens and fell off everything g for 30 mins. Pearled for the first time in months.

Sunday better, logging in ankle high waves. Still missing sections though. Head cold getting worse.

Yesterday in 4-6ft swirling 30mph windswell. Put the thrusters back in. Loads of debris in the water (seaweed, rope etc). Spent 1.5 hrs getting smashed. Couldnt plant my front foot and fell off drops I would normally make with ease. Then luckily went in the harbour which was much cleaner. Sorted the front foot and on the second wave managed 5 rather unsteady top/ bottom turns, and then made pretty much everything for the next hour and a half till sunset (but definitely didn't win any style points).

I'm putting this down to a combination of a bad head cold, changing fin set ups, winter rubber, ballache conditions and mounting frustration causing rushed technique. Should probably have a rest for a bit, but next week is flat so will be in for more pain over next couple of days.

Anyone else get weeks like this?

[dtc]

I wish I had a of bad surfing. Or any kind of surfing.

[tomthetreeman]

Is that pronounced ba-LA-chay or BAYA-chay?

[oldmansurfer]

I have had some not too great surfing lately but I love being in the ocean so it’s all good for me

[Prancing monkey]

Phew... Faith in humanity restored.

Nice weather (sunny, light crosshore) clean predictable knee to waist high surf. Bit like bambi on the first couple but planting front foot nicely after that and had fun in the mid tide shore dumps....kinda forces you to turn properly and stay on the shoulder otherwise you end up eating gravel and pay a visit to the ding man.

Lesson learned I think... Don't go out in near unsurfable conditions with a bad head cold and f@£& about with fins at the same time!!

[billie_morini]

[steveylang]

Phew... Faith in humanity restored.

Nice weather (sunny, light crosshore) clean predictable knee to waist high surf. Bit like bambi on the first couple but planting front foot nicely after that and had fun in the mid tide shore dumps....kinda forces you to turn properly and stay on the shoulder otherwise you end up eating gravel and pay a visit to the ding man.

Lesson learned I think... Don't go out in near unsurfable conditions with a bad head cold and f@£& about with fins at the same time!!

I think going out in tougher situations (whether sickness or chop or winds or whatever) can be okay, IF you adjust your expectations before you paddle out (as long as it's plausibly surfable LOL.) So you may only get one decent wave the entire session or whatever, but then you feel fine because you had to earn it, be really selective and try to find the right spots, or simply endure the bad conditions to get that wave.

[312T4]

I wish I had a of bad surfing. Or any kind of surfing.

yea, same here.