Easy, there is no ONE way, there is no CORRECT way to teach a newbie to surf. But Wisdom beats Knowledge any day.
I always feel bad when OMS says his opinion won't matter.
oldmansurfer wrote:I am also not a surf instructor and just have an interest in the physics of surfing as opposed to all the incredible practical knowledge that Waikikichan has in teaching surfing. I never taught anyone to surf and no one ever taught me to surf other than pushing me into a couple waves so I am somewhat clueless to the problems others have learning to surf so maybe don't listen to me
OMS learned to surf at the school of Hard Knocks.
1) There was no Longboard or soft sponge Costco Wavestorms for him to learn on.
2) Probably back then, there wasn't any leashes, so you had to be tough to swim in to retrieve your board after wiping out.
3) No Youtube or Surf forums to learn from or ask questions.
I respect OMS's comments and advice so so much, because his knowledge come from EXPERIENCE. From taking the dirty lickens and getting back up and going back out. He's from the "Old School", no helmet, no pads, no participation trophies, no whining. You want it, you had to earn it. He surfs waves I'll won't even consider leaving the safety of the air conditioned car. He is for most part Self Taught, and sometimes that the only way people learn is when they learn it by going through it themselves. He is kind enough to share that wisdom with you all.
I for one look forward to seeing OMS's input daily. How about you guys ?