Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

Went surfing today in messy head high conditions. didn't catch any waves worth mentioning but got wet and good exercise and managed to stay with hands on board all the time as in leash not needed most of the time. However on the first wave I fell down because the leash was under my foot and between my toes and I couldn't move my foot position.

[BaNZ]

Been out 3 weeks due to calf injuries. Yesterday I really wanted to get back in shape. Forecast was 2-3 feet which was perfect. I got there and the water looked too murky with slight wind. Decide that it's not my cup of tea so I waited till today.

This morning I checked the forecast and it says 3-4 feet. I got there and it was clearly overhead waves. Wife tagged along as she doesn't want me to surf with the injuries. I said I'm just gonna go for a swim and maybe catch the smaller waves. I stretched out for a bit but my calf still hurts so I did not stretch the leg with the injury.

As there were multiple swells, it was hard to get out. I got in the water and got out, trying to find a better spot to swim out. Took me 5-10 minutes before I managed to find an opening. I saw a 3-4 feet wave and think, that is okay. I can do it and see if I still feel any pain. I got on the wave and the pain wasn't there. Great! I'll start catching more and bigger waves. Storm is approaching so I know I can't be in the water for too long, plus I've been really out of shape and don't want to make the injury worse.

Wave started to increase in size and when the cleanup sets came, I could not make it out I had to abandon my board 2 to 3 times. I was getting frustrated because I know I used to be able to get out. On the last one, I had to bail hard and dive into the reef. I got held down by the wave for probably 10-15 seconds which felt like eternity to me. I was trying so hard to resurface but I couldn't. I know I need to resurface in the next 5 seconds or I'm out of breathe. I remember the documentary with Mark Foo. That some surfers thinks they are swimming towards the surface but they are actually swimming towards the bottom. I really panic as I had no idea which way was up. I decided i should stop trying to swim and let myself float up. I did managed to resurface and I nearly suffocate myself. My head hurts like hell and I thought maybe I was deprived of oxygen. I took another wave and head back in. I was really lightheaded and it took me a good 10 minutes to become normal again.

Overall it was a really good day. I'm super surprised that even after 3 weeks, I was still able to catch waves and my balance is all good. I was so scared that I'm back to square one again and have lost all my stamina and experience.

[BoMan]

On the first wave I fell down because the leash was under my foot and between my toes and I couldn't move my foot position.

Ha ha! This happens to me when the currents are strong and I eggbeater kick to stay in position. The leash hogties me and shuts down my popup. I keep forgetting to hold my leash.

[BaNZ]

On the first wave I fell down because the leash was under my foot and between my toes and I couldn't move my foot position.

Ha ha! This happens to me when the currents are strong and I eggbeater kick to stay in position. The leash hogties me and shuts down my popup. I keep forgetting to hold my leash.

Maybe we should make a retractable leash!

[oldmansurfer]

went surfing today. My life has become so hectic but managed to get some ocean time in. It looked crumbly from the beach but in reality it was lurching over first then crumbly. Difficult to surf conditions but caught a couple of nothing waves. Good exercise, clean wate,r sunshine yeah!

[BaNZ]

Went surfing yesterday, it was super clean but probably just ankle size. There was two other SUP older gentlemen talking about their wife for the whole time. Kept saying my wife is ALWAYS complaining. Hence they had to get out the house in the morning to go surf. Other gentleman was saying just treat your wife as a personal trainer. The constant yapping makes you want to go to the beach and surf. Then one said I always have to bring lunch home or else the wife won't even let him go surfing. I laughed and they all laughed because I also have to bring lunch home. They asked me if I was married and I said yeah, then one guy told me he is married for 55 years and it's a nightmare!

I'm sure they all love their wife lol!

[BaNZ]

Today's surf was really good in the morning but the forecast was 1-2 feet and the camera looked super crowded. I didn't want to go initially because it looks too busy for my liking. Eventually I couldn't resist watching the nice waves so I head out and the weather was hot. My excuse was that the gas station near the surf break is the cheapest within a 10 mile radius so I had to go and fill up the car. If I surf today, it means I saved on refilling the gas. As soon as I got there, it started getting cloudy and the crowd cleared out as it was just breaking all over the place and crumbling.

I told myself, this is perfect. I got the break all to myself and I bet I can catch all these waves. Turns out I couldn't. This was a super low tide and I've never seen this much reef exposed. Nearly every wave I caught I fell off as soon as I try to do a bottom turn. It's also a possibility that it's because I switched from a 2+1 to a single fin. Tail was really loose on bottom turns. However it's most likely I'm so used to surfing perfect conditions that I no longer can surf crumbling waves.

After surfing for like 30-40 mins. The two hot girls left and within few minutes I saw a dolphin probably 20 yards out. I was like time to GTFO. I'm not surfing this shark infested murky water.

The only good thing was that there were quite a few ladies out there without a wetsuit. I don't know how they can deal with the cold but hey, I'm definitely not complaining.

[BoMan]

My excuse was that the gas station near the surf break is the cheapest within a 10 mile radius so I had to go and fill up the car. If I surf today, it means I saved on refilling the gas.

I love how you think and this made my day.

[BaNZ]

Super clean overhead day. Tide was very high and rip was strong. I scour the breaks trying to find the perfect one. Went to this break that I've never surfed. I saw another guy going in without a wetsuit and thought hey, that's a kook for sure. I had to time when to paddle out because the water was so high that it was hitting the cliff.

It was a hard paddle getting out as the rip was strong. Took me probably 5-10 minutes and I got to the line up. I realized this is kinda too big. On the first wave I caught the ride was super bumpy, I'm thinking to myself strange. This looks perfectly clean, why is the ride so bumpy and I had to struggle to not fall off the board. Then I overhear the other guys talking how bumpy it is as well so I figured it's not only me.

As it was a saturday, it was kinda crowded. There were some really good surfers taking all the waves and I really struggled as I was worried of running people over. I caught a few waves and I did not make it all the way because there were so many kids trying to paddle out.

For a brief 5 seconds I saw a fin and I suspect it's not dolphin. Dolphin fin usually goes up and down. This fin surfaced for a few seconds and turned. I freaked out and panic. I paddled as hard as I could to catch the next wave but due to anxiety, I fell off while I was riding the wave! I'm like holy cr*p, it better not snag my legs. I lift myself off the water as fast as I could and I can't end my surf session like this. I need to catch a good wave. I proceeded to paddle out but not all the way out to the furthest lineup. I surfed another 2 hours or so because I was scared, tired, cold and I'm determined to catch the perfect wave to call it a day. I kept falling off while doing the turns as I was tired and scared. Eventually I was just too tired and I settled for an okayish wave. I got home and feel terrible as I was too cold and tired. My body was struggling to regulate the temperature. 3/2 wetsuit is really not enough for 3 hours in 52F water.

[BoMan]

My body was struggling to regulate the temperature. 3/2 wetsuit is really not enough for 3 hours in 52F water.

I used to hate getting cold in a 4/3 when the waves were pumping and after making a 2 hour trip to coast! Sometimes I would paddle out, jog on the beach and jump back in. Now I wear a 5 mil suit in 50 degree water and feel like the Michelin Man.

[stimbley]

Epic session at Greenmount (Gold Coast) this weekend. 3-4 ft clean peeling waves, barreling at some sections. I faced some demons, finally able to take off and land the drop in some pretty steep surf, felt fricken amazing! Current was super strong, sweeping right along the beach, though getting out to the back was actually pretty easy, just maintaining position was gruelling.

[Naeco78]

Finally got back in the water for the first time this year.. tried an 8' foamie for the first time after some recent injuries.. it was a lot different than i expected, kinda felt like trying to turn a Tug boat compared to the fiberglass boards that I'm used to.. but some of it was probably from the long layoff over the winter too. The waves were pitching over a narrow sandbar and then quickly pulling back.. made for a tricky takeoff and i fell on my first few waves while trying to shake the rust off.. i checked the fins and wax each time... still good... dang it must be the rider. Then I finally caught a good backside wave that kept pitching and i stalled into the pocket for awhile. That one wave felt like it erased all the previous fails. Cant wait to get back out there again soon.

[JPS]

New podcast episode with professional surfers Kai Barger and Kain Daly.

I sit down with my good friends Kai Barger and Kain Daly, we crack open a few beers and talk about surfing, the "core" surf culture, "The Ultimate Surfer", and more.

Podcast is called Joao's Podcast Show

Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/2UQBzjgij ... uZqj1HnjNA
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/j ... 1589723247
YouTube: https://youtu.be/mL35Lgvi13E

www.joaospodcast.com

[oldmansurfer]

Kind of long but good insight to the Ultimate Surfer show and interesting stories from the boys

[oldmansurfer]

January 31 was the last time I went surfing till today October 17. So much has gone on in my life. I was hoping to get less busy but ended up more busy Partly I had legal issues concerning a trust I am the trustee for and partly because my office manager quit and I had to take over the job and partly because my wife has had 2 shoulder replacement surgeries and some other medical issues causing me to have to care for her and spend more time to care for our dog. But Ultimately I had to get back into the ocean. It's been an important part of my health and well being for so much of my life. So I did my usual 30 minutes of surfing. Good things were I caught my first wave and did not wipe out on any waves today and I still remember how to get out through the surf and avoid getting worked by the waves and apparently my exercises that I do for my shoulders are keeping my paddle fitness close to good. Good enough but not quite good. Bad was that the waves were junk and I was playing it safe and bailed on a couple drops that I would have gone for if I was more sure of myself... Last thing I want to do is injure myself when I am just restarting surfing after a layoff of several months. Overall I have to say I feel great having gone out recharged and ready for some more.

[JPS]

New podcast with Kai Lenny!

Kai Lenny is a professional waterman that has excelled in several watersports such as Stand-up Paddling, Windsurfing, Surfing, Kite Surfing, Wing-foiling and more. He is an 8X SUP World Champion, one of the best big-wave surfers in the world, and all-around awesome person and friend.

On Joao's Podcast Show!

Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/episode/0yriwl ... b27be84b41
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/j ... _box_badge
YouTube: https://youtu.be/fZjOrk4atq8
Website: https://www.joaospodcast.com/episodes/4 ... l-waterman

[oldmansurfer]

I really liked that one. I think I am just one of a couple youtube subscribers, Interesting to hear him talk about his approach to surfing

[oldmansurfer]

I think everyone who excels at something to that level has some issue that drives them to it. Every great musician artist or athlete suffers from some problem that drives them to excellence. Too bad for them but good for us.

[oldmansurfer]

Went out today in small mush conditions maybe shoulder high at thee most. I am starting to get the feel of surfing back. Did a backside bottom turn to off the lip where the lip smacked the bottom of the board in a last gasp and the wave went flat after that. I think I caught at least the first 4 waves I paddled for. My popup is a little slow I did fall on a wave where the wave broke on me as I was popping up. Managed to popup but just enough off balance that I couldn't recover. I always feel energized after a surf session. Almost didn't go due to work and I just got a microscope with a camera attached and was trying to figure out how to make the camera work. Glad I went.

[BaNZ]

Hang five, success. Might not have looked good but I did it. I was riding this wave for a bit but I was 1 step away from the nose of the board. It was really strange because it felt like the nose was digging into the water and stalling the board. Eventually I took another step and got to the nose. The board started to gain speed with that 1 extra step. Probably the wave caught up with me.