Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

2 day weekend for me but only 2 days surfing. On Saturday I went out at the middle of the bay because it seemed to be the best bet. I caught a few waves but the only wave worth mentioning was one my wife would have liked because I traveled a long distance maybe about 60 yards. I went about twice as far sideways as toward the beach. Really not much of a wave but one of those where I chose to move and stay well in front of the breaking portion of the wave so that it doesn't pass me by. Sunday I went to Horners and there were a bunch of guys out inside of the outside break I went outside of them since there weren't much waves there. The waves were breaking all over the place and some nice ones coming in if you can be in the right place. I wasn't I went over the falls on two waves and then caught a crumbly mess. Went to the middle part and caught a wave or two and went in. Today I broke from my usual tradition and didn't surf on Christmas day. It was muddy and dangerous due to yule tide logs

[dtc]

Looks very murky. I’ve been hit with the holiday crowd (not that I can complain since I am one). Last week was surfing by myself on several days, today maybe 20 people chasing chest high waves with the good surfers stealing everything

[oldmansurfer]

Should have had a 4 day surf weekend but unfortunately only 2 days. The first day I caught only 3 waves at middle Horners, Had to paddle all the time I wasn't surfing so a good workout. I managed to get a couple of good drops and bottom turns but nothing special. The second day same place it was too bumpy to make really hard bottom turns or any hard turns but really good exercise again. Hope you all had a good new years. Oh yeah and somewhere along the way I put a huge ding in the front of my board probably from hitting submerged log which I didn't see.

[oldmansurfer]

One day surf weekend for me because I had a pinched nerve in my shoulder yesterday but the conditions were nice today which also means there was a crowd of mostly SUP foil guys and one shortboard foil guy with a drone filming him. I didn't see how he did it but he took off from shore and pumped out to the break. An advantage to foils of the right variety and skill of surfer. I was using my 7 foot egg and I knew I was going to have less waves unless I pushed the takeoffs meaning taking later takeoffs than I would with my 8 foot board which I already do a lot of late takeoffs with. My first wave I dropped with the whitewater touching me which kept me from getting centered over my board at the bottom and unfortunately hit a couple chops before I could gather board beneath me and I wiped out (a little more than head high). I had 2 really late takeoffs that I made. The first was actually a floater on takeoff where unlike the majority of the waves I attempt to do this on I was on the lip going over the falls, usually it's just whitewater I ride down after the wave breaks in front of me. I landed that floater on takeoff made a good bottom turn then a straight up and down turn off the whitewater because the wave had raced well ahead of me. I would say it was a foam climb but it felt more like an off the lip so maybe an off the foam turn. I had another really late take off and just kind of came down with the whitewater made a bottom turn to top turn then ran out on the nose maybe too late as it buried in the water sort of pearling I guess. My wave in was fun, I took off at an angle and the wave got steep and I knew the board was going to lose it's edge and swing down so I just made a turn while it swung down to straighten the board and go straight in then a bottom turn to top turn to another bottom to top turn and then out on the nose to milk it in further. All in all a good day for the first time I have used this board in a long time.

[dtc]

It sounds like you have a lot of foils around your area. Are they common in Hawaii? Or is your beach for some reason the local foil hangout?

I've never seen one in real life, for which I'm quite grateful. Hard enough dealing with all the longboarders out the back and the 10year grommets on the inside

[oldmansurfer]

Foils are the latest fad. I think all the surfers who are getting bored with SUPs are now doing foils either shortboard foil or SUP foils

[oldmansurfer]

I think they like my beach because it has lots of waves and not much surfers

[oldmansurfer]

One day surfing weekend for me due to work. No time between work and office party dinner (late work/early dinner). But the waves were small and mushy so I was going for length of ride and rode one for at least 50 yards. I wish I had my 8 foot board but the 7 foot egg is still fun but just doesn't catch waves quite as well. I have to get used to what it can do.

[oldmansurfer]

I only paddled today for 20 minutes no break. It was about 0.4 miles one way so about 2.4 miles per hour. I would have gone further with my 8 foot board. Heck I used to swim about that fast with no board back when I was in prime shape. But it was a beautiful day sunny and no wind. I caught one tiny little wave in at the end of the paddle

[tomthetreeman]

Visiting friends in California, on our way to Baja. Surfed chest-shoulder high at Manhattan Beach yesterday on a 6’8” Dewey Weber single fin (my friend’s board). Soooo much fun! Waves were hard to get into due to astronomical high tide (+4.5?), but I caught a few fun ones, pulled off some nice top turns, etc. Super fun day.

[tomthetreeman]

Three days of surf and fun in Baja. First day was San Miguel... Super fast, competitive wave with hard charging locals. I stayed in my lane and got one super fun, small pocket late drop wave with a nice top turn. Second day and today were at Playa Mision beach break. One session yesterday, then went wave hunting in the afternoon to K38 but it was weak. Three sessions today at the beach again. One decent photo to show for it all lol.

[Tudeo]

That looks like a nice wall on the photo, did u make it past the feathering section?
What board are u using? Looks small.

[BoMan]

Photos from my last trip.

https://sites.google.com/view/chrismalmgren/home/bolinas-12419

[Tudeo]

Beautiful Boman! I enjoyed the foto story, beautiful environment.

[tomthetreeman]

That looks like a nice wall on the photo, did u make it past the feathering section?
What board are u using? Looks small.

That section closed out on me almost every time. It was a really tempting wave, so I kept going for it. There was a better peeling peak further out behind me, but I would often take the bait on this temptress lol.

The board is a very thin 7’ foamie Takayama Scorpion, it turned out to be perfect.

Tom

[BoMan]

I enjoyed the foto story.

Thanks...this was inspired by Goleta Surfing... one of Billie Morini's favorites

http://www.goletasurfing.com/

[oldmansurfer]

BoMan, I think you spend more time at the beach taking pictures than I do surfing.

[BoMan]

BoMan, I think you spend more time at the beach taking pictures than I do surfing.

You are right! I usually surf for 2 hours on the incoming tide then sit out for a couple hours while the break is flooded. I hike around to get warm and collect a few photos along the way. I never get tired of doing this because when I was little I spent every summer at my grandfathers house in the area. Every corner has a memory. When the water recedes I jump back in for a 2nd sesh.

[oldmansurfer]

I look forward to retiring so I can spend more time at the beach

[oldmansurfer]

2 day surfing weekend for me. Nice waves both days so a few other surfers were out. Yesterday I went to the outside break and it was inconsistent but nice waves between waist high to well overhead. I flubbed every wave I caught. But it was a nice day. The surfer next to me was shredding it. Looked like he was having an awesome day, older guy but probably still 20 years younger than me. I felt incompetent next to him but it was still a fun day except I flubbed every wave I caught and then got a cramp in my thigh on the inside coming in. Redemption today as I managed to ride one wave very well and no cramps but I stayed at middle Horners and shared the break with a female SUPer.