I looked at the plan and profile of the board I'm not really impressed.
IMO it has way to much nose rocker allied with the nose concave which means you are really paddling a short board profile, and then it has the rocker in the tail to allow radical turns for "progressive" longboarding. Not much paddle surface. Have a look at your board and see if that is what is going on put it on some flat water and look at the wetted area and then put some weight on to simulate where you are when you are paddling in your sweet spot??? think about that Then add the corkiness of epoxy and an offshore wind . Genuine old nose riders had weight as part of their ingredients Mass in volume
Then there is getting 10ft around for a big initial bottom turn requiring a fair size wave.
Take off at an angle you haven't quite got the luxury of a short arc of turning like an 8ft board think semi trailer not volkswagen.
See if you can get a genuine old time board try and compare, the only thing I like about the board is the multicoloured paint job>
But that is an IMO

I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷