Help with short boarding

[lamechris]

Hey guys my names Chris, I just recently started surfing about 3 months ago, got started on a 6'8 hybrid funboard, and I feel like its starting to hold me back, I skate boarded for 7 years and I wanted surfing to feel a bit more skatey. So I went ahead and bought myself a tokoro x-1, it's 6'2 x 19 x 2.75, i'm about 130 lbs and thought I might need that bit of extra volume as a beginner.

I took the board out in 1.5 to 3 foot surf, and I had the hardest time trying to catch waves. I did catch 3 waves after a 2 hours session, and when I caught them the board just ripped, I loved it. My only issue is, that down near my area, the waves don't get all that big and nice so I don't really get that much good waves, but I still see other short boarders catching wave after wave so I know it's just my skill level.

So my main problem right now is that when i'm paddling for a wave I try my best to keep the nose as close to the water as possible but when I pop up to try and catch the wave the nose comes up to high up and my board kinda just rolls over the back of the wave. When I try to adjust my self a little bit more forward to glide down the face, I end up pearling. The weird thing is, the times that I did catch the waves, it felt like i didn't even have to try and the wave wasn't even that big. they were waves that I didn't even think I would end up catching.

Anyone one got any tips they could share with me to help me out a bit?

[IanCaio]

It sounds more like a positioning issue. The main thing about shortboards vs longboards/funboards is that the later can catch waves earlier, reason why longboarders usually stay further out in the line up. With a shortboard you need to be in the critical point of the wave, or near it. Just as it is about to break, when it's getting steep, that's where you should be. The nose should be a little above the water. I keep it about 2 inches above.
When the wave is about to break you start paddling, and if you are perfect positioned you will barely need to paddle, probably what happened with the waves you catched. The thing is, when you are in the perfect spot, your timing will have to be good, and you will have to pop up a little faster. If you wait too much, the lip will throw you down. If you go too soon, the wave will pass you like you experienced.
A good trick is to paddle 2 times more than you think you need, until you get that feel of when the wave has catched you.

[oldmansurfer]

Surf as often as you can. Try lining up a little more one way or the other usually deeper into the lineup. Take off at an angle or push the inside rail into the wave or both. I call that an ankle turn some call it trimming. Try to push all thoughts of failure out of your mind. Tell yourself you are going to get this. Concentrate and focus, you have to shift your weight from your front foot to your rear foot as you near the bottom. But it feels like the board just comes under you and your weight stays in the same place. Stay low, keep your center of gravity low. But you could always go back to the first board again. It wasn't holding you back. You are still a newbie and still learning.

[dtc]

Figure out what you did when it worked; then do that!

As the others have said it's probably positioning and maybe some paddling . Falling off the back of the wave is because you aren't in the right spot or aren't paddling fast enough. Perling is caused by the same things, it's just that you almost caught the wave whereas falling off the back is when you have missed it totally.

So paddle harder from the right spot...(nb paddling harder might not require making a bigger effort but rather timing your paddling better)

[oldmansurfer]

So you are a skater. I imagine it is similar to going over the top edge of a half pipe and dropping in to it. If you don't lean forward it isn't going to work. You have to commit to the drop, no hesitation, just go for it. When you get to the bottom you are leaning forward but at the bottom you bring the board under you so that your weight is pushing down onto the board. The major difference besides a much softer wipeout surfing is the wave is constantly changing. So it may get steeper as you drop. You have to pay attention to which waves are letting you drop in at which position. Now I never learned to do a half pipe but I imagine it is similar in that you just have to keep trying till you get it down and once you do then you can maybe try a higher one or a different type of entry onto it. One of the things is it is going to take a while before you can do anything like skating. So just be patient and tell yourself you are going to get it. Eventually you will if you stick to it. Lots of people give up before they get to that point because they want to go from newbie to advanced surfer without paying the dues and use a short board before they have the basics down. But if you persist and remain dedicated it will all come with time and effort (there is no short cut)

[oldmansurfer]

I forgot to mention other obvious differences between surfing and skating. You have to paddle for surfing. Paddling is what gets you to the edge. Taking off is 90% positioning 9% paddling and the rest is skill (maybe just a smidgen of luck in there too). If you are in the right place when a wave comes in you don't even need to paddle, you can just stand quickly and ride the wave. It's very difficult to be in that position. I have done this a few times on a shortboard and once on a longboard. It's probably more like 99% positioning but paddling makes up for not being exactly in the right position. The better paddler you are them more area you will have that you can lineup in to catch a wave. Longer boards help with this too, they allow you a larger area where you can lineup for a wave. Skill makes up for not being positioned entirely right and/or paddling well enough to get into the wave before it's really hairy and scary. But you can sit all day in the ocean and not catch a wave if you aren't lined up right or too poor at paddling to get into the waves where you are lined up.

[jaffa1949]

, I just recently started surfing about 3 months ago, got started on a 6'8 hybrid funboard, and I feel like its starting to hold me back, I skate boarded for 7 years and I wanted surfing to feel a bit more skatey. So I went ahead and bought myself a tokoro x-1, it's 6'2 x 19 x 2.75, i'm about 130 lbs and thought I might need that bit of extra volume as a beginner.

The first question I would ask is, How was the 6'8" holding you back? What was your problem there? Because somewhere between that board and the current board is where you answer lies!.

[Lebowski]

The following is my opinion.

After 3 months of surfing, no board is holding you back. Your skills are holding you back and you've just made it harder by buying a smaller board.

I would guess that your (lack of) paddling strength is the reason you are missing waves. You need to be as forward as possible on the board without sinking the nose while you're paddling. At the moment that is causing you to pearl, because your lack of paddling strength is meaning you catch the wave late when it is super steep, and you're probably not skilful enough to deal with this late take off during your pop up. If you move back on the board whilst paddling (to avoid this pearling), then you're pushing water and missing the waves completely.

There seems to be a common misconception amongst beginner surfers, that after a few weeks/months their first board is now a hindrance, and it's shortboard time. If you gave Kelly Slater a mini-mal, do you think he'd be struggling to turn it and held back?

[jaffa1949]

True answer Lebowski,

[Big H]

Learn where the sweet spot is on your board when paddling, the spot that gives the least resistance. Learn to keep your feet together and an arch in your back then learn to trim the board varying back arch and leg height. Learn to paddle better so that you are more efficient. Get deeper in the wave, get closer to where the wave will break, Totally commit to getting into the wave. Take the extra paddles to make sure you are in the wave. Keep your head low when going for the wave. Practice taking waves on your belly like a bodyboard to experience the feeling of when you have caught the wave without having to think about getting up and riding it so you can really pay attention. Look at the wave as it is coming and you are going for it so that you can see when to really step on it, adjust trim and to recognize what the wave should look like should you happen to catch it so that you can adjust or replicate your position for the next one.

I'm a noob too; just went through all of this too. Positioning is crucial; kids here get into waves with just a few average strokes but to do so they are in a very critical part of the wave and they control the trim with back arch and pop up ninja quick....they also practice in baby back breaks that are waist deep after school every day for years. Keep at it; you'll figure all of it out if you put in the necessary hours.

[Big H]

Oh yeah....you need to learn that being in the right spot rarely means bobbing in the right spot....learn how to read the wave as it is coming in the go get to the spot that gives you the best chance of getting in is key.