surfing bigger and better waves

surfing bigger and better waves

Postby andymac » Tue Sep 28, 2004 9:40 pm

I can surf small waves(3-4ft) fine, but when a big set(5-8ft) comes in, I cann't stand up for very long. I can get up fine, but my nose digs in and I go flying into the water! I have a NSP 6'6 shortboard. What am I doing wrong?
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Postby PapaW » Wed Sep 29, 2004 9:34 am

Generally a bigger wave steps up the face steaper than that of a smaller. The take off will be faster and you'll need to be on the ball to get your bottom turn in.

Work at poping up faster and setting your line sooner. You may need to adjust your position on the board to compensate for the steeper face.
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Postby ccsurfer1488 » Thu Sep 30, 2004 3:06 am

i was in the same situation as you for a while and my problem was that i was facing straight and then after standing up i would try and turn but my nose would always go under. so what i did was i was already facing the way i wanted to go (usually toeside) and so i got a better angle and i was going down a more curved surface rather than such a steap one.
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Postby namino tsume » Thu Sep 30, 2004 9:58 pm

ya, in big waves, setting oyur self at an angle is a def.
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