Moments of total zen surf cool

[Ed McDead]

Evening surf, west facing break, sun low in the sky boiling into the sea, dropping into the pit of a hollow 6+ footer and everything going dark as the wave blocks out the sun.

Man I live for those moments.

tell me more . . .

[essex sucks]

man i have that one in devon it rocks

main one is just makeing a drop on a glasse day when u are on you own and riping it up what a feeling

[miamisurfer]

I had a wave a while ago that was about 6 feet. I was just thinking about stuff and I turned and paddled for it, caught it and got a little cover up. But the whole time I was riding the wave I was in a trance. It wasn't till I pulled out that I realized what had happened.

[Otter]

Sweet, I think we'll all agree the essence of surfing can be found in the tube, no other "trick" or manuever quite captures the profundity of what surfing is all about.

Here's a wave I caught about 30 years ago, at California St. in Ventura...

It was a steep take off, I was riding a 7'6" at the time. Dropped in and made a very radical bottom turn, had to as the wave was closing behind me. Tucked in and got a short tube ride, went deep inside, felt the lip smacking against the top of my head and tucked a little tighter. Survived, pulled out of the tube and floated off the lip, dropping down to the pit, where the wave covered me again! I tucked in, practically putting my head between my knees. Trimmed forward and dropped out of the tube. Both tube rides were about 3-4 seconds long. I've tried to duplicate a double tube ever since, but so far have been unable to do so. It was totally exhillerating!

[hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf]

probably after a good beating by big surf when im tired and humble. similar to marijuana only way better.

[isaluteyou]

Ive only made out of a tube on two foot 1 time great feeling

[Real Pol]

When it's so clear you can see the rocks and weeds on the seabed and it's almost like you're flying across them.

[Adrenaline Fueled]

It may not be a total zen trance, but the feeling of surfing in general leaves me feeling very chilled. Stand out moments of suspended disbelief for me include surfing as the sunrose over the ruins of a castle on the summer solstice, with my two best friends.
Or surfing at 2am under the moon and spotlights of nearby houses, while me and my one of my best friends hollered and whooped through the darkness, straining to pick each other out in a black sea...

Truly magical moments I'll never forget