Okay... so I used to leave right on the coast in California, down near San Diego, from the time I was three to when I was nine. I surfed ever since I was about five, starting with a sponge and working up. I was always sunburnt and tan and had my own little mini-dreads going... I loved it in California and I loved surfing. But, we were originally from Indiana... so... you guessed it... I was ripped from my waves and ever since, I've been living here in Indiana... it's snowy and cold and I really honestly hate it. I haven't even been back to Cali or laid foot on a surf board since, and I miss it sooooooooo fuucking much!
So hows the life in Cali?
And do you think that it's wierd that I still read surfer mags., or just... normal?
I picked up skating but it's no where near the excitment and joy of surfing.
Someone help me out here!
Ahhhh bring me back to those sweet wavesss!