hawaiisucks wrote:so i have a problem with this espetually when getting out of the water. my shorts stick to my legs and sink near my private areas too. do i need now shorts or is this normal? ive had about 4 pairs now, some are worse than others, and these new ones i got at the gap that are more my size (smaller than the others) are thicker but it still happens.
another problem i have is my nose sinking in the wave while dropping in on waves3-6 feet. i know i should just put more weight on the back but i never seem to get it. it happends about 40% of the time and is very disapointing. my board is 6'2'' and im 6'1'' and 155 pounds. it seems to work fine minus getting smacked in the face when the nose sinks. the board has a little waterlog and i thought this might be the problem. ive been surfig for a year and go quite often. should i look for a new board and if so what size?
im also looking for tips on cutting back and turning up waves to drop in again. i can turn to the side alright and get barreled sometimes if i crouch, but even when a wave is forming nicely infront of me, all i can do is ride along it. i want to learn to be able to ride back up a wave.
1) im not positive if this is normal, but it does sometimes happenes to me... i dont know what to do either, i just pull em down.
2) you might have two problems, the first is yes your board may be a bit too small... but before you go buy one, try catching the wave earlier. if you find yourself looking down a verticle wall with absolutly no or little qangle to it, your mostly likely to nose dive. or is your question as your paddling it sinks. if this is so, you probably need a new board or try putting your wieght back more so that the tip of your nose sticks out of the water at least one inch. if none of these works, buy a new board. i suggest something in the 6'6" to 7'. if all your ever in is 3-6 footers you might want to think about buying a fish, this will give you more float.
3)cutting back is different then going up the wave, just to let you know. it is nearly impossible to explain what to do. but i think the other guy described it well. but ill give it a shot. bend your knees, look to where you want to go (dont try anything too sharp at first), rotate you shoulders so theey become equal with where your head is pointing. at this point your shoulders and head should be faceing where your turning. then turn your hips so that your whole body is like what it would be going down the line striaght. just dont think about how to do it too much, let it come naturally; youll get it.