surfing books - what have you read?

[surf patrol]

what have you read? what was good? what is it about?? i love reading a good surfing book, and there are so many more out there that i would like to get, but i want to see what you guys have read. heres me...

west of jesus - great book, awesome story, inspiring
surfing's greatest misadventures - good book, some good story-telling
the lost coast - amazing collection of some real inspiring and deep stories (HIGHLY recommended)

what about you guys? any surfing books you thought were awesome?

[jethrodog]

honestly, i have never ever read a surfing book, other than mags. Although, I did just buy a guide book to surfing Costa Rica and Nicaragua and read it from cover to cover. Does this count?
If you have any suggestions on what to start reading maybe I'll go pick it up and try it out.

Duh!! I just saw your 3 suggestions above. I am going to try to find one of them and give it a try.

[SilverShark78]

well there are a couple of types of "surfing media". i never got into the competitive edge of surfing or anything like that, but this book the lost coast was more of a lifestyle type book focusing on the spiritual aspect of surfing. thats more what makes my clock tick.

conversely i think there are a lot of other types of reading with surfing, like the competitive and analytical sorts.

it all depends on how you view surfing, and then you just persue your out-of-water experience so forth

[waterlogged]

Matt Warshaw's "Encyclopedia of Surfing" -
Not exactly a novel that you can just read straight through, but there's a million interesting surf factoids.

I always think I'm going to just look at it a couple minutes, then something catches my eye, I cross-reference it, etc....end up wasting lots o' time.

[el_timmo]

I only have one surfing book and it's called Eddie Would Go, and it's a good book!

[miamisurfer]

Eddie would go is an awesome book, im reading it right now
The Big Drop is an awesome book and so is Big Wave
My favorite one is Taj Burrow's book of hot surfing it teaches tons of tricks and has a few gnarly stories in it

[SilverShark78]

i just picked up In Search of Captain Zero. its a fiction novel, i think more of just telling a story. i'll keep you updated...

[dougirwin13]

Encyclopedia Of Surfing.
Waves - Great Tales Form The Surf.
Longboarder's Startup Guide.

-doug

[Nejka]

I love the book Pipe Dream from Kelly SLater... his life and successes is just unbelivable and if you love surfing like me, you just have to love the book..a must.