..Havent been to surfing-waves in a while. I actually havent been surfing in the last few weeks....small summer waves, annoying bennys(North Jersey, New York natives), work....and the less i surfed the less i thought about it.
Yesterday was going off. It was a choppy windswell but at around noon waves were picking up to 5-6 with occasional 7+.... A little creeped out by the strong currents and hard unpredictably crashing waves i sat in the lineup..with some of the top big-break locals(i mean competitive beaches)..which was cool all the jersey shore big names were surfing my beach and the life guards let us choose which beach to surf...the point break was pretty wack so we chose the more open swimming area.
Sitting in the line up waiting for my magical set...which doesnt really come..but at this point the waves pick up from 5 to about 7+ on average(at this point in time)....Its choppy and no one has taken a wave. I see a monster 9ft wall of almost black, thick as hell water. hahah You know how we do. I paddle but starts breaking on my left...my boy is about to drop in on me in the right..(the perfect excuse to pull off) the sweel builds up more and my boy looks down the face...pulls off and tells me to go for it...at this point i have no time to think so i impulsivly went for it
hoping i get up to early and miss the wave...im slowly trailing the lip..when a rush of adrenaline hits me and drop in as if im on a skateboard...there i go slicing down the wave like a hot knife through butter..literally
afraid of my high speed i get to the most bottom part of the wave...standing in a relaxed position..literally flying i stare down the wall of water towering over my head.....i cut up the face and decide to tear this mother up....pumping up and down....i through an epic cutback ....now im going into the chop..and know im done i whip the best snap of my life..and ride over the lip....
Nice audience on the beach....got the most respect ive ever had in my life
I come back to the line up with a smile on my face..when people start asking me what happened...they thought i was under for a while because you couldnt see me behind the huge wave...
I tell everyone how they have to get up alot earlier than usually..and the rest of the day was fun as hell...i got to see some awesome stuff..im talking some of the most impressive airiels i have ever seen...including videos and pros
Im so hooked again...i cant wait for hurricane season
sorry for this pointless thread...i just love telling the story