My first time on 'big boards' (ie. those sexy yellow foamies that everywhere in Cornwall has!) was April this year at Crantock. After years of playing around on bodyboards catching whitewater, Sean decided that he'd catch more and go faster with a bigger board...not to be out-done I hired one too!
Not sure how big it was really, but there must've been a couple of foot and a howling onshore - masses and masses of white foam smacking me in the face, and the rips scaring my pants off! I caught the first wave I paddled for and felt like I was flying...first thing I said when I got back out was "how fleshin' fast do these thigns go?!" Soooo stoked!!
Sadly, don't think I caught another wave all sesh...kept jumping on too far forward and got really good at wiping out headfirst
Next time out we decided that bodyboarding on whopping great foam boards made us look a little silly, so obviously we'd look really cool if we tried to stand up! Crantock again, saw a girl who was learning to pop-up so we copied her in the whitewater, and spent the next 4 hours practising! Ended up with VERY red faces....always wear sunscreen!!!
And so stoked now, we've both gone out and bought boards (glad I'm not the only one who's done that and still getting a pounding by the whitewater!)...loving it, loving it, loving it!!