riversurfing & atlantic-coast surfing
i´m not surfing for a long time and i´m not so very good, but has anybody of you ever done riversurfing? i learned standing on a board at munich/ germany and that´s perfect because you get a feeling for the board on a static wave without paddeling. you throw your board into the river, jump on it and (try to) ride. you can go tandem and doing silly tricks, don´t care if you fall, you get up and walk out of the river with your board. and because surfing on the river is forbidden, you can paddle away from the police if they come and they won´t ever get you. but i thought: that´s not enough. so i travelled down the atlantic last summer for some month and even looking the sea was so breathtaking sometimes that i felt like if i had to scream. although i was feared of going into the water sometimes because of waves that looked so god damn high for me or rocks or only because my skin was burnt to hell and i didnt want more pain (i´m a redhead) there was nearly no day without a surf. and when there were no waves i went paddeling, it was horrible to be not in the water. every time i arrived at a new place i went down to the beach or a surfshop first and started talking to the people that didn´t look like touris. the most time i found locals who showed me ´my´ ideal wave, where to get in, where to start, where to ride and very often they helped me to improve my surfing skills. localism was only max. 10%, i mean this localism style that books talk about when they don´t let you into the water or shoot you out of the wave. but all the places where that happened where crowded with people and so i was not "angry" or "disappointed", because i´m the guest and they live there, and have to share their homewaves with creeps. this summer totally stoked me. i´m addicted and wished it could have been an endless one. i´m going studying photojournalism in california now (waves right next the schooldoor!!), that i can earn money with the things i love: driving a motorcycle down a coast for hundreds of kilometres, go surfing when there´s a board or any possibility and doing photos. i´m looking forward to the summer so very much, i can´t tell you.
ride or die.