Oh my God...you live in Santa Barbara?!!! I would LOVE to live there! Whaddya mean you're not surfing yet?!!! if I lived there I would be out there every day! I am sooo jealous! It kinda sucks living in the middle of the UK like I do when your biggest passion is surfing...!
Why do we love it? I agree with Sinista - if you haven't tried it, it's hard to explain the full extent of its fantastic-ness! there's just something about sitting there on your board waiting for your set and then going for it! Not to mention the best feeling you get when you come in knowing you've just caught the most amazing wave! And you generally meet a good crowd of people- it's a nice feeling knowing that there are loads of people who feel the same way about it! :) especially o this site - there's just this great vibe.
Oh, I dunno! I can't explain! When I see anyone surfing, even if it's just in a movie, I just feel something inside of me like I wanna jump straight in the sea and get on a board! It's like this huge rush of...well, I guess like passion! Maybe it's just me, but I doubt it. None of my friends are into it and they all think I'm crazy when I sit there on the edge of me seat as soon as I hear anything vaguely related to surfing!
I've probably described this all wrong and you're all gonna think I'm really weird now! Someone else can probably sum it up much better. All i can say is, just get out there right now and give it a go! You'll see what I mean, you'll feel it - if you don't, you're crazy! And if you need any help or anything, check out my cousin, Joel Mason - he lives in Santa Barbara and he's out carving it every day! You can't miss him, just look for the dude with bright red dreads!
And if you still don't get what surfing's all about, just watch The Endless Summer...!
Ohhh, man I wanna go surfing RIGHT NOW!!! Got a 2 week trip planned to Cornwall in the Summer and another 2 weeks in France...only 2 months to go! Believe me, I'm counting the days! When I'm not in the water (which is too much of the time) I feel like part of me is missing! Oh God, now you've got me using really corny cliches...I'm sorry! It's you're fault for getting me started! Just kidding - hope this gives you some idea of why it's such an incredible sport/passion/way of life...!
Actually, thanks for asking why we love it - I'm in the middle of doing exams right now and it seems kinda impossible right now that I'll ever get to surf, and you made me think about how good it is - infact, you just made my day! Thanks a lot :)
Hope my crazy rambling doesn't put you off! x x x Barbie