I've been surfing for about 10 months and am 40 years old................its not a mid life crisis...............I think
I absolutely love it. I have always loved the sea and as a youngster I was that annoying kid that would swim off and get the inflatable dingy back that you were trying to get rid of
Seriously I love the whole surfing thing, I am tall (6'5") and weigh 15 stone so i'm blaming that for my long learning curve! I do press ups, sit ups, balancing exercises and long country treks with my dog to keep me in trim and try to surf at least once a week ( having to work is a pain in the butt ). I started on a bic magnum and can now catch almost every wave I go for but I took out my shortboard for the first time today
. I think its big enough for me (6'8" by 19 3/4 by 2 7/8) but I will post on the shortboard section and ask. It was like starting again but it made me realise I had got lazy with my paddling. I am from Hampshire in the UK so keeping an eye out for good local waves is a bit of an obsession, as they are few and far between but just catching any wave does it for me
Anyway I've taken up enough of your time, so thanks for reading and HELLO.