http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/ ... lcolm-knox
surf doc wrote:Looking for inspiration? read 'kook'. Great book about learning to surf at an older age.
Saw a book in an (Australian) bookshop the other day called "Taking the Drop: Life is for living, whatever your age" which is written by 4 x 40yr+ women who decide to learn to surf. I read about 30 pages (while waiting for my wife to pick yet another tedious literary award winner). Anyway, didnt seem like great prose but certainly had a lot of examples that learner surfers go through - frustration, being scared, injuries, loss of confidence, surfing into english backpackers who just werent paying attention and were in the wrong place ... It also had some girly stuff about divorce and feelings. Still, it might be worth having a look at if you are that demographic (older learner surfer). Can't find any reviews about the book on line, which is a bit odd.