I am a big dude 6'4" 240 lbs and use a 9ft foamy. Went to San Onofre for 2 days last week. Caught a lot of waves on my chest and knees, but never really got up on my feet. Stoked nonetheless.
I tweaked my left shoulder somehow though...too much paddling and my rotator cuff feels crappy. Hopefully a little time will heal it up and I can get back out there.
Live up in Santa Clarita and have 3 little kids, so getting to the waves is a challenge, but my wife is learning with me, so we're both stoked and will be back out soon.
Look forward to learning a lot from this forum.