Re: A peculiar observation.
here in Qld, in my short experience, I saw that the better the waves, the worst the environment.
Also, I don't know why there are guys who think they r cool if they look like homeless. Those are the one who never smile, never say something, never look at someone.
And you know what? the best feeling ever is when you catch a wave not seeing someone else is on in, and that guy tells you to keep on going. and you just share it.
And then you give the favour back. And the vibe in the lineup it's just perfect.
Once my mate share it with some older guy, both on longs, and they surfed around each other. Now THAT was good surfing.
Not looking like garbage on an vintage board and asking, barking at the world to give you the way.
And speaking about dropping in there 's this:
if I'm a learner and I drop in on you, 95% I didn't see you, and I just made a mistake.
Instead you know what u'r doing. You know u r catching all the waves never stoping a second, never giving a chance to other. Barking if someone is trying to finally catch something, and at the same time dropping on every one else because you know they'll fall or they will let you go.
Everybody pointing out the rules at the beginners, and then being the worst guy in the water.
Yes, never smile, because you can't: you know you don't have an happy life.