Re: Greetings from South Wales - About the board I need
Surfing is frustrating . . . especially as a learner / intermediate for the reasons you mention.
To bring you on you need someone watching you and shouting to you to correct anything that is wrong (see . . . I wasn't kidding!).
Hell, how are you to know if your head is too far forward or your rear foot skewiff on the board . . . impossible.
Muscle memory will eventually correct all the errors and then you become a surfer, but until then it will be a pain . . . unless you nail each simple step one at a time.
Can you sit on your surfboard in surf of whatever size with no hands and not fall off?
Can you stand on your surfboard in flat conditions and then crouch back down and sit on the board again?
Can you go under the water then 'Free Willy' style leap out of the water and instantly land on the surfboard sitting in a stable controlled position, arms crossed ?
Can you shoot a .177 pellet 50yards accurately enough to cut a candle wick in half in outdoor conditions ?
Yup, each of the above is as difficult as the other from new (and yes, before you ask, I am a good shot!).
Though surfing is a pain, it (along with shooting) is the only sport I wish to continue in earnest . . . I lived the surfer life, travelling back and forth from the beach to work . . . having a few beers on the beach, the fires and the food . . . really enjoyed it actually - being mellow but firm is a definite asset in this regard - and I have taught many a friend to catch and ride waves in a very short space of time . . . but there is the thing . . . time and dedication.
If the surf is good go surfing - end of. Just go, go . . . come on lets go !
I used to to work huge hours of overtime in the steel mills of south Wales, so with vast time off in lieu me and my colleagues could (as long as we up to speed in our office work) shoot off at a moment's notice - In fact my going surfing was a condition of my employments in the steel industry!
In essence then, go get the basics sorted first. Catch the wave you choose in the white water ad-nausem, then go for the more difficult (but easier) green faces.
Don't be a hero. Paddle all the way to the shore if you must. Just paddle and keep paddling until the wave takes over. Forget standing until you can catch the clean faces.
Okay, this is long enough ('don't want use up all of Surf Patrol's electrons!)
Patience and dedication are the keys.
Hey, keep posting though, this is a real surfers journey developing!