Dead_One wrote:hmm, i was struggling to balance lying on the board, sitting was a step too far.....
Are you falling off paddling out (through the white water etc) or are you falling off once you are past the white water?
If in white water, then that is an issue with some foamie boards because they are so bouyant that they just get thrown around. That said, some tips (for any kind of board):
- always hit the white water nose first. If you are side on, even by a small amount, you will probably be thrown off
- paddle fast toward the wave and hit nose on, then do a push up on the board as the water hits you, so you are up with your arms fully stretched and on your toes. The water goes between you and your board - the less surface area for the white water to hit, the less it can throw you off balance. If you can get the nose of the board just a little bit under water, thats even better.
- as an alternative (not as preferred but can work) paddle fast into the white water and then, just as it hits you, grab the rails to the front of the board, slide down the board very slightly to raise the nose of your board (hopefully above the level of the white water) and spread your legs, so your feet are in the water. This spreads your weight over a larger area and makes you more stable. But you need to paddle fast at the start, if you hit the water and are going too slow, you may be wave carnage. If you raise the nose of your board too much into the white water, you may also be tumbled. Its just a slight weight transfer (This technique also works if you are punching through the lip of a wave, except that you dont put your weight back and raise the nose of your board, rather you grab the rails and push the nose through the lip while spreading your legs. You still need to paddle fast for this to work)
If you are falling off in 'flat' water, I dont know. You can do the 'feet in the water' thing, which does increase stability, but its terrible for paddling (its good if you just want to lay on your board in the sun out the back). Maybe it was the beer.
edited to say: these are not tips to improve balance, but to stop you being thrown off balance, which may achieve the same thing. Bit if you cannot lie on a board out the back, surfing may not be your sport...