I can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong. When I catch a good but slightly steep unbroken wave, I can feel my board going forward and downwards fast, too fast for me to be able to stand up. The board is simply sliding down the wave face and eventually the board simply goes into the water.
I've seen this video below:
which describes the theory well - so it seems the board should be sliding down like it is in my case, no worries, but then I should be able to stand up if I place my hands correctly. The problem is, the sliding is happening too fast. I don't have enough time to do anything. So I tried to "prepare" for this and sort of try and pop up a bit earlier. It did not work - the board is too unstable - I haven't really caught the wave.
I also watched some good surfers, and what seems to be happening for them is that they are not going fast when they pop up. Somehow they pop up right when the board is at the top of the wave and starts to look down but is not sliding yet. Would that be a fair assessment? I can't seem to catch that moment though - as the wave hits me from behind, next thing I know I'm sliding down.
I also tried taking off at an angle, but mostly to no avail. Usually the wave just goes past me.