Re: Beachbreak barrels in OZ ??
by garbarrage » Wed Jul 18, 2012 5:16 pm
We do have flat spells here to though, going through a bad one at the moment, but looking like its going to break on Sunday. Wind is the biggest surf killer here, but when you know the coastline a bit, a protected spot is not usually far away. It's a lot warmer than Canadian winters, Gulf Stream does its job, but still pretty hardcore come Jan-Feb. the hardest thing to get used to is the hood and gloves (although I rarely bother with gloves, unless its brutally cold out, and if its not windy I keep my hood down). Quick sessions are a must... I usually give myself a 10 wave limit, to keep my core warm enough for another surf. Get in, catch 10 waves (good ones... one's that fatten out dont count) and get out. Flask of tea, on the way to the next spot and car heater on full... Repeat until arms don't work, or daylight fades.
Your goal shouldn't be to get on a small board as soon as possible, it should be to surf and have as much fun as possible.