Ocean confidence

[dizzeeP]

If im not comfortable out in the ocean, should I really continue to surf? I have to really push myself to go out everytime its 3 ft or over, but sit out there on my board feeling pretty bad anxiety, which usually settles a bit once i take a beating and paddle back out. But a lot of the time, I'll find i'm tentative about going out. I want to surf until I get to the surf and then I begin to doubt it, is this normal? I skateboarded for 10+ years and really want to surf, I really enjoy actually being up on my board riding, its just the ocean and its unpredicatable nature and the force of it that sorta freaks me out, I guess I feel im out of control and do get into mild panic at times which feels incredibly dangerous when I'm out the back and the sets begin to build and roll in. I'd appreciate anyone's input here, my confidence doesnt seem to have grown that much in the two years ive been surfing, it's still a struggle for me and I have a lot of fear attached to going into the ocean..

[jaffa1949]

Dizzy, the ocean is out of control, but what you can do is prepare yourself to handle what it is going to throw at you.
So some questions.
How well can you swim? Do regular swimming anyway become strong at it.
Go to some surf classes that teach you how to understand the changing nature of your local beach!
Skateboarding is great but the slopes don't change and you are already standing!

Stay within your comfort zone and gradually work up a little more in any session where you feel a little more confident.
If you swim OK try some smallish days and surf without the legrope, take a few minor beatings note that you will survive.

depending on where you live go to your nearest big wave spot and watch the guys surf note their wipeouts and compare to your experiences, see if that helps.

surf often and in small bursts so you are no tired or too nervous and enjoy each step forward.
Talk to us perhaps we can help further

[surf doc]

I don't see much merit in pushing yourself through when you're terrified. Do you always feel this way or are there days when it's smaller and you feel relaxed? If so, do as Jaffa says and stay within your comfort zone. Instead of pushing yourself to overcome your anxiety, work within your limits which will gradually change over time. I also find that when I go out with a friend I'm more comfortable in bigger surf, so perhaps look for a surf buddy if you're out alone.

[SoCalSurfing]

Are you the friend he is talking about here!
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18493

may want to take a look at these posts.

[dizzeeP]

Haha soCal, im not no but thanks anyways, that thread was good to look at..
Thanks Jaffa and Surf Doc - i'm alright in anything 3ft and under, i actually enjoy it when its fun and playful - it's when the surf picks up more and is messier and there's more water moving, i think it all comes down to thinking im out of control and something could go wrong out in the surf and im far from land and safety, i may have to just get a bit more mental strength together. I'm a very confident swimmer, I've swum all my life, i think it's more just the uncertainty of the ocean that trips me out, and what it might do to me, so Jaffa your spot on, perhaps i could just better prepare myself for what it will throw at me...I've surfed 2 years already and I'm at an low intermediate level (generating some of my own speed, bottom turns and going down the line consistently backside and frontside), I just dont want to be stuck surfing small waves all my life and find it really demoralizing having surfed 2 years and still not having the courage to paddle out when its bigger and more powerful. Anyway, I hope this makes sense!

[drowningbitbybit]

Shhhhh.... don't tell anyone... but quite a lot of surfers prefer smaller waves

[jaffa1949]

Don't worry about big waves, surf the size you want to surf first rule of enjoyment.

I don't know what the wiring is for the outrageous huge surf that some people have, I don 't have it
If fact my wiring has shrunk considerably.

There are extremists in every action sport, pushing at the edges, the magazines and media hold these guys and now girls as the epitome of the sport, and the masses charge to try to emulate the hero

Give me good quality waves, offshore shaped face a good hit of power in the wave and I am happier in that than charging down mountains. (never did anything bigger than 4x overhead anyway, 2 is stretching the comfort zone now cleaness and shape can lift me into larger surf but I also have to feel confident in myself)

If the was consistently bigger then the boundaries would be lifted but since big swells are not the norm head high is the usual big serve
Lately double underhead

[RonG]

Shhhhh.... don't tell anyone... but quite a lot of surfers prefer smaller waves

I'm coming to terms with the feeling that smaller waves are going to be my comfort zone for a long time. I do like the challenge of paddling into a small wave and milking it for all it's worth.

Maybe it's because most of my experience thus far has been in small surf - ankle slappers that can get me moving down the line on my longboard, but would send most shortboarders back to the car. We've gotten so few sizable waves all winter that when they get to even 3-4 feet, I feel outmatched!

[Toj]

If thats what you feel comfortable surfing. then surf it. as long as you are enjoying yourself. thats the most important thing about surfing. enjoying it. you might find the more you stay in your comfort zone will will gradually start to push the boundaries. swimming is a great way to increase stamina and help lung capacity. all of these will add to your confidence and you will start seeing how much further out you want to go. and if you don't. so what...... there is no point in pushing yourself if your not going to enjoy it

[SoCalSurfing]

Agree with Toj, do what you can and enjoy it!

[dream2live]

to be honest, i was like that when i first started out. But water confidence comes with time, the mroe you surf the more you learn the more you get comfy.

The key is to know your limits and when in doubt, dont. Go learn at your own pace and one day you'll figure it all out.

it might sound cheesey, but all there is to it, HAVE FUN!!

the best surfer is the one having the most fun.

[Katsura]

There can be set backs too - last year I almost drowned on a very messy day, without wearing a leg rope (yeah, stupid, but as a logger, they sometimes get in the way) AND having a cramp after finishing a ride. Since then my water confidence has taken a hit. Anything more than head high and I'm chickening out.

But I'm about to enroll in a swimming team locally to get that lost confidence back.

[eightythree]

I'll share my story. I took my first few lessons on absolutely garbage, raining conditions in Newport Beach last year. I don't know what the instructor was thinking but at the time I didn't know any better. I was with another person and we all got separated and I was by myself where I assumed the lineup was (in my zero experience).

I found out quickly that I wasn't when a wave came, and knocked me over and started rolling me around. I panicked, tried to grip my board against the strength of the ocean and in the process dislocated my shoulder.

I didn't realize it was dislocated, but I started panicking even more because I couldn't seem to swim and I couldn't touch the bottom. I made it to shore, more terrified and exhausted then I ever have been in my life.

In any case, I thought I would swear off surfing forever. I was bored and watched "Step Into Liquid" one day I decided to head back out and give it a shot again. I was nervous, but I had a friend with me who retaught me the basics again in a better way then the instructor who I paid did.

Now I am in love with the sport, and I don't think I will ever quit. A few tips :

1. The worst thing you can do in is panic in the ocean.

2. I surf in California meaning I use a wetsuit, so I always remember that I am wearing a flotation device, and attached to a flotation device.

3. When you get wiped out, just realize you can't fight it, just put your arms in front of your face and take the kicking. You WILL float to the surface.

4. Be OK being separated from your board, sometimes I will just chill in the water and swim around in my wetsuit and it builds confidence for the day I might lose a leash or somehow get separated from my board.

5. Sometimes you just have to sack up and tackle that fear head on. On my first big day (big to me I think it was 8 to 10ish feet) I started feeling how truly powerful the ocean could get, it took me about an hour and half just to get the guff up to make a serious attempt at paddling out. I made it out, paddled into a giant, got my ass handed to me, and I was still alive. It's steps like that, that will build your confidence. Just keep tackling a little bigger and bigger challenges.

6. Most importantly have fun! If you are surfing 1 foot waves and having a blast doing it, don't stress about the bigger stuff!

Hope that helps.

[jaffa1949]

Nice kick off eighty three, welcome to SW

[esonscar]

I have surfed all my life – spent huuuge amounts of hard earned money surfing, (over £30K on fuel alone!) and I can state the following (with corporate reputable backup [son of the Iraqi supergun scandal!]) . . . we all had awesome days on hip high perfection . . . awesome awesome awesome days . . . I regularly dragged ‘us’ all from work (not a part of the supergun) and just had such a soooo many good days it was ridiculous. And that was just hip high!
I have also had a blast in Hossegor France when helicopters were picking surfers out of the water due to the wave height (just huge – massive, like a big mavericks/pipeline fusion).
Big or small, a wave is a wave . . . go have some fun goddamit.

[Toj]

I'd rather actually have a surfing buddy (and actual human being) next to me in the event that soemthing does happen I'm sure they might be able to do a little more about it. That's my opinion anyway.