KiddiePoolSurfn wrote:my fitness is actually very good. The reason I'm so heavy is I lift a ton of weights. In the gym 5-6 days a week and eat a clean diet. The reason I wanted a short board is the funshape can't get out of it's own way on bigger surf. I'm a complete noob. But the board is constantly pearling on bigger surf, and paddling out in big surf is an ordeal with the lack of duck diving lol.
Mate So much of of your post shows so much wrong in your quest to start surfing again, I think you've given yourself a hell of a lot of misinformation as to how surfing works. I think to the shaper hasn't grasped or wasn't told the full details of what you had in mind , he probably only heard shorter board
You are a short muscular guy probably gym fit and to a great extent probably aerobically fit to. Surf and paddle fit nup!
So let's start with a few basics to think about, if you have good lean muscle bulk it is less floaty than any one who carries fat, good for health not for flotation. Your weight is at a level that would mostly require a longboard or a shorter board with a lot more volume in by cutting down in size and you will notice the thickness is about the same but the board is shorter, making your floating even less likely and of course coming back to this size probably means that you haven't got the position to paddle nailed.
So The waves are usually mushy... between knee to shoulder height..
KiddiePoolSurfn wrote: The reason I wanted a short board is the funshape can't get out of it's own way on bigger surf. I'm a complete noob. But the board is constantly pearling on bigger surf, and paddling out in big surf is an ordeal with the lack of duck diving lol.
With your weight on the fun board you should be able with proper technique be able to duck dive with ease, as your own bodyweight is not buoyant might be slightly harder with an epoxy board but still doable.
Pearling too won't stop with a change of boards unless you have an immense nose rocker and then you will feel like you are pushing a snow plow.
Everything points IMO to the fact that you are expecting too much of yourself at this stage and here is the harsh bit you do not have the skills you believe you have
, you cannot push at surfing like you can in a gym or for aerobic fitness you have to gather on build upon reinforced skills done as often as possible.
Finally mushy surf is extremely frustrating to learn in as it doesn't have an easily read pattern to start adjusting to and getting out under those conditions are trying for everyone.
My opinion, I'd look to something bigger
either in volume and/ or length I'd get my skills up on that and then as I progressed I'd seek smaller but good volumed boards. I'd avoid that shaper he IMO is worth only one sale and you bought it!
Why he recommended that particular size and shape
Be realistic about your skills and your expectations and then there will be no giving up in frustration.
If you can build your body in a gym you know the dedication and how to improve yourself, if you teach gym? treat yourself as an honoured client and respect your learning process.
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷