short period wind swell

by **oldenglish** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 5:24 pm

I recently went to Horace Caldwell pier in port aransas Texas for a session. The break is primarily a beach break getting mostly low period wind swell. I've been out here a few times and its tagged as a good beginner spot. I've never had issues getting out back here or at other beginner breaks I've traveled to but this day was different. The waves were just a little bit bigger than I'm used to but what threw me off was that I just could not find a lull inbetween sets and couldn't make it out back. I tried to turtle with the 9'2 I had but just found my self facing another round of white water when I got back on. I ended up spending a few hours surfing the inside and definitely made some progress but it was so chaotic and the current was so strong on the inside that I wasnt spending much time trying to catch waves. I looked for channels and rips to help me get out back but couldn't identify anything. Any tips on getting out back in similar conditions? I also got bumped by something pretty dang solid while sitting on my board, it was a bit unnerving.

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by **drowningbitbybit** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 8:55 pm

Some days you just cant do it. Or, even if you can, its not worth the effort as there wont be anything cleaner out back than there is at the shore break. You're only option is another time or another place.

by **SoCalSurfing** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:01 pm

Perhaps a tow by a jet ski :roll:

by **oldenglish** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:39 pm

Yeah you are probably right. I guess I was hummed that there were a few outside but I wasn't able to see how they got out there. I was taking a beating on the inside and thought it would be a little calmer out back. I livefairly far from the ocean so I try to make the most of any chance I get to visit the beach.

by **RonG** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 11:40 pm

oldenglish wrote:Yeah you are probably right. I guess I was hummed that there were a few outside but I wasn't able to see how they got out there. I was taking a beating on the inside and thought it would be a little calmer out back. I livefairly far from the ocean so I try to make the most of any chance I get to visit the beach.

Were the people out back on longboards? If they were on shorter boards they might have been duckdiving through and losing less ground than you were turtle rolling and recovering just in time for the next wall of whitewater.

Today was all short period windswell at my local beach too, luckily it was small enough to be manageable on the paddle out, but big enough to provide some fun rides.

by **oldenglish** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 11:44 pm

One was on a long board and the others were shortboarders.

by **tonylamont** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:16 pm

Don't get too down on yourself - it's hard to get outside when riding a longboard in larger, short period surf. I just got back from a trip to Hawaii and was able to get outside at every break I surfed without too much trouble, even in head high surf. But I still struggle getting out in TX on bigger days, esp. when it is sloppy. The difference = short periods. If the waves are breaking at the end of the pier or farther out, it's going to be a tough paddle. If it is really sloppy surf, then even worse. People do manage to get outside on longboards, but it takes time, conditioning and paddling technique. No shame in staying on the inside and catching waves off the middle bars - just make sure you're not sitting smack dab in the path of people riding the outside waves.

As far as tips. . . sometimes you can look around and find a bit of a channel where waves aren't breaking due to a cut in the sandbar. Sometimes you can time it and get a bit of a lull where the sets are smaller. Personally, I try to avoid turtling unless I absolutely have to. When you turtle in 6 second interval surf, it's often pretty much impossible to get going before you get pounded by another wave. Instead, sometimes you can weave your way out a bit - when it is really choppy, the waves aren't very lined up and often you can avoid white water by steering around breaking sections a bit. If you can stay on your board and punch through the top of the waves, you have a much better chance. You'll get slapped in the face by the lip a lot but better than losing momentum. Finally, at HCP and the other pier breaks, you will will see people paddling out right under the pier as it is calmer and sometimes there is a bit of a rip there. I don't recommend that to anyone who is a beginner as it is very easy to be knocked into the pilings, plus there are usually a bunch of people fishing off the pier.

The other thing you can do is surf Packery and paddle out near the jetty - that is usually easier. But once you get out to the outside break, you will often be in a large pack of experienced surfers, so not always the best beginner spot.

Good luck and don't let it get you down - it's part of the adventure of learning to surf.

by **oldenglish** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:08 pm

I saw some guys use the pier like that but was a bit intimidated about getting knocked into the beams. Yeah I guess I will give up on turtling. I agree with other places being easier to paddle out with longer period waves. Good news is I think I'm going to .buy my first board this weekend, Walden magic 10'

by **tonylamont** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:24 pm

oldenglish wrote:I saw some guys use the pier like that but was a bit intimidated about getting knocked into the beams. Yeah I guess I will give up on turtling. I agree with other places being easier to paddle out with longer period waves. Good news is I think I'm going to .buy my first board this weekend, Walden magic 10'

I still turtle sometimes, but just try to avoid unless there's no other option. If you're going to get hammered it will at least minimize the amount of ground you give up.

Congrats on the board - the Walden is a good choice. I have a 9'4" but really wish I had a 10 footer for summer. Maybe for the next board . . .

short period wind swell

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