surf patrol wrote:
Someone has posted a question on the turtle / eskimo roll article at http://www.surfing-waves.com/turtle_roll.htm
Would someone who knows please answer. I would, but have no experience (which is why I solicited help to write the article)
Uncle jaffa is on the job the eskimo/turtle roll.
On all counts if you can choose a way to get out the back without duckdiving or rolling , use a rip a channel or a rock jump, but it is not always possible.
You are paddling out on your longboard and are confronted by of white water coming towards you.
Duck diving is not an option, if it is small or weak or not quite down the face of the wave you can try method push up
Paddle hard at the white water making sure you are facing straight at it. KNOW WHERE THE OTHER SURFERS ARE AROUND YOU they could wear your mistake if you don't factor this in.
The second before you meet the white water you do a full push up toes on board hands gripping the rails firmly, push the nose down slightly ( if you push the nose down too much you will end up popping the board out behind you like a champagne cork) get it right and the white water will pass between you and the board, and you are past the wave.
If not you might as well attempt your first fin first takeoff or just accept being washed back
OK now for the meat in the turtle roll.
Bigger surf bigger and better skills needed, KNOW WHERE THE OTHER SURFERS ARE AROUND YOU, BIG white water paddle hard straight at it, at the last moment with speed turn upside down gripping the rails at a sweet spot towards the front of the board, some where about 3/4 of the way forward. Let your body hang straight down like a sea anchor pull the nose down a little if done correctly you will be pushed a little deeper by the white water's force, and the white water will pass you by, a good roll and you will emerge behind the wave.
Do not grab to far forward or push the nose really deep or once again you will project your board back wards like a missile.
Contrary to what is said on site do not grip the board near the back this sticks the nose up towards the oncoming white water with the usual result of being flipped and be flung towards the beach or being forcefully separated from your board.
Next category paddling up a bigger wave that starts to break at the top, an old way that worked with surf skis and they even had a handle at their back for this. To do this get off the board and give it an almighty push to get over the wave, this doesn't work as well with leg ropes.
First off; every action has an equal and opposite reaction, you push the board over the wave but this succeeds in pushing you back over the falls, over you go, leg rope stretches twang board comes back over the falls after you
possibly a smack in the head.
But if timed right this actually works.
More successful methods both involve [b]speed
and [/b]timing[/b] paddle straight hard at the approaching face,method 1
try a short penetrating duck dive hopefully you will have enough momentum to penetrate and pop through.method 2
again with speed turtle roll and hang hard again the momentum of your paddle will help as the wave is heading shore ward and you will pop out.
Other things you can do is if surf traffic permits head towards the shoulder ( ie; if there is somebody riding do not paddle towards the shoulder you cannot out paddle someone who is surfing, man up and take the white water on the head, failing to give way like this is a major cause of fights and abuse in the water)
if you are going to partially hit by the white water or can't straighten out come as close to straight on and let the wave hit your tail and blow it's energy swinging you around.A good rule of thumb for a surf spot is if you can't control your board in getting out and getting through the waves, you are not ready for that spot
Hope this helps
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷