Hey guys, first time posting on the board Been surfing for about 4 months when we're not dealing with summer flats down here in SFL.
Anyway, (Hurricane) Irene just passed by us in West Palm Beach, and the surf has been WAY UP. Like we're probably gonna have double overhead plus tomorrow. Which I'm not going out in for obvious reasons But I was out on Wednesday and Surfline forecast be damned, we were getting chest-high at the local pier (Lake Worth). Problem was, I couldn't push past the break with my funboard. No matter how hard I swam I couldn't get past it more than three times, which was exhausting, and I can't seem to duckdive this damn board.
I'm in pretty good shape, do curls, pushups, pullups every other day. And I'm 165 lbs, 6'0". But the board is a 7'0"x21"x2.7" Orion shaped by Greg Geiselman, and I'm thinking it might just be too wide and thick to dive. Seriously, I've watched lots of videos and I push on her but she won't give. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE this board and surfing consumes my every waking thought, but is this board just meant for fun rides on stomach-high and lower? I've had this problem before in Jaxville with same height waves, but not when it's mushy down here and smaller.
Surf's gonna be up for like 3days and I really wanna get out, so any tips on diving would be helpful. Since I can get up and ride and starting to turn, I'm thinking of like a 6'0"x18"x2 1/4" for my next board (maybe soon) so those suggestions are appreciated too Thanks and sorry for the long post!