I have just started surfing ( a bit late in life too, 23 years old ). I have always wanted to surf, I used to skate a bit in high school, tried roller blading, and also rode bmx, but never surfed. I lived in Pittsburgh for 8 years, and then Arizona for two, so there weren't many waves to catch there haha
. Anyway, I have now lived in Myrtle Beach for about 13 years. Surfing is quite popular; even though the waves aren't too good here, it's a very common sight to see on our beaches.
I got a board at the beginning of July. It's 7'9, 20 1/2 wide, and 2 5/8 thick. I am 5'3, about 100 pounds. So far I have only been surfing about 3 times. I try to go once a week for 2-3 hours. I have gotten paddling down, sitting, and basically transitioning from sitting to paddling for the wave. I got up for about 1 second my first session, fell off. My second time, the waves were terrible, I got up, but then fell off again, then it started to rain so we left
. My third time out, I was a bit nervous, I couldn't find my surfing buddy, so I was all alone. Well, not completely alone. There were a bunch of surfers out there with me, all having a good time. I was a bit nervous. I see how good they are and I feel embarrassed and intimidated. I know that sounds stupid for a guy my age, but that's just how I am.
I tried to catch some waves, my pop ups were perfect, only problem was that my timing was total crap. I'd get up on the board and the wave would take me for a second, then I'd just sink and it would roll past me. I kept trying and trying, I just cant judge waves well I guess. A lot of the surfers out there are really nice and very laid back. One guy who was a bit older than me said as long as I was having a good time, hanging out, no worries, they don't care if I am doing bad or not, they all talked and laughed and I didn't feel as nervous as before. So i feel a lot more comfortable about going back out and not worrying about how I look now. I just want to know if this is common. Will I get good? Does anybody have any pointers on timing, judging the waves. My first two times I judged them fine, just couldn't pop up, this time I pop up, and my timing is off. What gives?