Roy_Stewart wrote:If it's a beachbreak just keep going, ride right up to the beach and just hop off the board. Why waste part of the wave ? People think it's beneath them to do this but that's partly because it's harder than it looks !
surf doc wrote:I'm with Roy and Jaffa, I like to ride the wave to the end. Be careful stepping off the board, however, as you could twist an ankle if you're going too fast so try to slow it down. Sometimes in bigger surf and riding frontside, I'll ride up onto the beachbreak and when it's about to dump on me i'll dive headfirst into and through the wave (parallel to the bottom not down towards it). It's a lot of fun, and usually your board will get sucked through the wave with you.
jaffa1949 wrote:surf doc wrote:I'm with Roy and Jaffa, I like to ride the wave to the end. Be careful stepping off the board, however, as you could twist an ankle if you're going too fast so try to slow it down. Sometimes in bigger surf and riding frontside, I'll ride up onto the beachbreak and when it's about to dump on me i'll dive headfirst into and through the wave (parallel to the bottom not down towards it). It's a lot of fun, and usually your board will get sucked through the wave with you.
Doc.
Try an island pullout or a standing island pull out in the shore break.
What are theyAS you come to the final crunch in the shorebreak, run to the nose of your board, for an island pull out force the nose down slightly on the inside rail while crouching and grabbing the outside rail free the tail towards the beach and swing nose into the face of the wave penetrate and pop out the back, very cool exciting and scary all at the same time.
Standing island do the same thing whilst standing like a Hawaiian Kahuna

themathteacher wrote:
Ideally, you lean back and pivot your board out of the wave.
, but falling off works just as good...
jaffa1949 wrote:Roy I agree with you that just letting yourself fall off is not a good option.
Now I would like to suggest to you that as this is an international forum, some of our posters may not be using correct grammar or in fact be using idiomatic language, they might even be using( heaven forbid) an Internet translator. Grammatically and pedantically you are correct. SO!
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