Re: 'The value of nothing' .... Daily stoke article
I grew up in New Zealand and have spent all but ten days out of my 50 years ( it will be 50yrs on the 7th of June) here in NZ.
I haven't surfed in Hawaii or California, we do have a break here called Hawai, I haven't surfed there either !
I go through stages where I catch every day of every swell for years on end, and then periods where I surf less. i'm just starting a new 'feeding frenzy' of surfing. Apparently ( according to geezerjocks ) one can reach Olympic athlete level by age 60, it takes 10 years. That's the plan anyway, and I've been training regularly so am pretty fit to start with.