Re: The 6ft barrier.
Well, I'm not in Hawaii, but I am in South Africa. The places that hold waves more than double over where I live is very critical and hollow, and it breaks half a kilometer out to sea.
I have been surfing with more and more confidence. There where a few days at the 5ft region, which where thick and hollow, where instead of just surfing it like I normally would, I was doing huge turns and getting some deep barrels. (One day I had 6 barrels.) I am surfing a 5ft, heavy wave, like I used to surf a 4ft, not so hollow wave.
Oh, and should I mention all the spots I surf are reefs and points, and to get back in you have to paddle through the impact zone, and towards rocks.
My confidence grew tons in the past few weeks.
I'll see if I can do some big turns and get some barrels next time a hollow, good forming 6ft day comes, and see if the wipeouts do not hit me as hard as I remember. (I haven't surfed 6ft since last winter, with the exeption of a day this February where the waves got over 6ft, where didn't get wiped out, and only had one duckdive.)
I'm also doing some apnea training. I am seeing if I can do good sized sets of pushups after emptying my lungs completely of air. My max is at 20 pushups per set. I'm going to see if I can get it to 40.
If I can get my apnea training in gear, and if I perform well in 6ft, with some big turns and some barrels, I think my confidence will get enough of a boost that I can get my max size up to 8ft.
After I finish school (I'm in Grade 11 now) I will be able to travel the countries coastline and find some bigger waves. My local doesn't get more that 6ft often, and to get an 8ft swell that still breaks cleanly is very rare. But there is some spots within an hours drive that get up to 10ft, and Jeffries Bay is only 3 hours drive. I want to get to 9ft+ before I go to J-bay, since the crowd is to heavy to get any waves when the waves are 6ft-8ft. Once it gets bigger than that though, it thins out to 30-40 guys out at supertubes. (Normally it gets up to 100...) That is also when it becomes possible to surf from Boneyards, through Supertubes, past impossibles, through Tubes, all the way to the point. That is almost a mile long ride, with many barrels in between. I haven't went to J-bay yet, as I first want to be free to stay there for a few months, getting to know the wave, getting ready to surf one of those really big days. And I'd like to be ready to do that by the time I finish school un two years time...