by Kaaimans » Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:55 pm
by volcomism » Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:44 am
by billie_morini » Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:13 am
by tony g » Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:36 am
by jaffa1949 » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:15 am
by garbarrage » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:57 pm
by Deepwaterdesigns » Sat Mar 26, 2011 8:06 pm
by Surf Hound » Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:06 am
by garbarrage » Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:48 pm
Deepwaterdesigns wrote:I cant wait till i get to the 6ft barrier! im still stuck on the 4ft barrier!
Love jaffa's idea of a "1 foot wave" thought....
by Deepwaterdesigns » Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:25 pm
by Aloha » Mon Apr 04, 2011 4:07 am
by madcat » Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:44 pm
by Aloha » Thu Apr 07, 2011 6:58 am
madcat wrote:Alright so I guess I don't have quite the same mind set as some surfers. If I'm not surfing over rocks I really don't care how big it is. My issue stems more from "Is it going to close out on me right as I drop in?" but even that is rare. I guess a lot of people just sit in the lineup's for awhile, I don't think I've ever sat outside for more than 15 minutes. If I see a peak coming and am ready I honestly don't think about it, I just go.
The place I surf at was really big the last 2 weeks or so on some days. 10' + for about 4 days running. The form sucked and it was pretty nasty when they would close out, but I just don't think about it much. I'm not really that good yet and I eat it a lot, but it's just water. As long as you don't get held down or slammed into anything you should be ok. I rollerbladed for about 10 years and after jumping into 16 foot wooden wave ramps and onto rails, the water just doesn't scare me that much.
by Kaaimans » Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:46 pm
by Aloha » Tue Apr 19, 2011 3:49 am
by Kaaimans » Mon May 09, 2011 7:06 pm
by surf doc » Tue May 10, 2011 5:16 am
by Aloha » Fri May 13, 2011 1:44 am
Kaaimans wrote: Anyway, I just find typing all the stuff out helps me find where the problem lies, and then I normally solve it myself before anyone else can give me much advice.
by Sham » Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:49 am
by behindThePeak » Wed Jun 01, 2011 3:56 pm
Sham wrote:yesterday I paddled out in bigger conditions than I have ever before (only 4-5 ft (with some 6-7ft sets occasionally) which for me is huge!) once I got out there I was immediately struck with fear and couldn't (or wouldnt) paddle for any waves.. i was out there for about 30 minutes trying to decide what to do.. do I try and paddle in and get smashed or what.. i decided the best way in was to catch a slightly smaller wave coming in.. so i paddled furiously for the next decent wave knowing that if i missed it i was then too far in for the next set and would get crumbled again. anyway. i caught the wave and actually rode it really well! felt awesome! i caught it almost all the way into the shore and sat on the beach.. and after about 10 minutes i decide that wave was too much fun and i should paddle out. but same thing happened.. got out(finally) and just started shitting myself again.. this time i think the swell might have picked up and i seriously didnt know what to do
i was out there for an hour that time and seriously i just felt sick. im not the best surfer and just didnt know what to do.. finally i decided just to paddle in when i saw a break in the sets.. i still got thumped and probably should have tried to catch a wave but my mind just wouldnt let me.. when i finally washed up on shore i just lied on the sand haha not as fun as i thought it would be!
i need to get over it cos winter is nearly here and the swell is picking up almost everyday! and i dont wanna not surf everyday.. im loving it too much!
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