So I surfed for sporadically for 2 years at home in ireland, then lived on south shore of oahu for 4 months surfing Kaisers at least once a day, got pretty proficient at riding backside (i still cant ride rights to save my life), then moved to australia and had my gf break up with me, re-discovered going out and getting pissed and hitting on girls and knocked surfing on the head for a good part of 5 years.
I was walking down Freshie beach, Northern beaches of sydney where I live now, about a month ago and the surf caught my eye. It was the way I used to love it at home. 2-4ft and clean. And I thought "what the f*** am I doing? I love to snowboard and complain that I only get to go every couple of years and I have this amazing playground on my doorstep, practically free"
The following week I picked up a 2nd hand board and wettie on gumtree and have been back in the water 4 or 5 times since.
I am a kook again and loving it. I'm picking it up reasonably quickly and I've already gotten the frustration and the itch when it's flat a few days in a row.
I'm back in the water and don't ever intend to leave.