You can play at the mega body twisting slash backs and whatever else but I reckon if the wave ain’t stoking you, you won’t be able to turn too good at all just due to lack of speed – this is the bain of all beginners.
Nice post Esonscar. Just wonder if I can pick your brains. You mentioned that at beginner stage you don't want to break the down the line surf cos fear of losing the ride by making a move that then messes up and that's exactly where I am. I've had a few 3ft glassy sessions recently and everything has been clicking - great popup and turn down the line nestled right up against the wall of the wave with stoke at an all time high.
However, it got me thinking, what do i do next? From what I can glean (correct me if i am wrong) i need to generate some speed down the line by going up and down the wave, rail to rail, (which will send me ahead of the wave) which will allow me to make a turn and get back to the breaking part of the wave - is this possible on 3 foot waves with a 7' 6" minimal? How would the turn work?
“ great popup and turn down the line nestled right up against the wall of the wave with stoke at an all time high. “
Okay – do angled take offs NOW.
No more pointing the nose to the shore, point the nose of the board to 45 degrees ish left or right the way you want to go. Instantly you have gained a significant ‘drop’ on the wave so to speak by not having to do a nasty bottom turn and dump all the speed you just paddled your ass of to achieve to catch the wave in the first place !
Look at the pros in small (non pipeline !) surf – always they angle take off, a down the face and a turn is for tubes and dull stooped fun AFTER you can surf proficiently.
“ is this possible on 3 foot waves with a 7' 6" minimal? “
Anything is possible on any ‘board if you are good enough and strong enough.
“ i need to generate some speed down the line by going up and down the wave, rail to rail, “
In good glassy surf there is really no more speed to be gained by going rail to rail – look at tube surfers – down the line is it – end of, no rail to rail in tubes else you’ll pop over the top of the wave or get drilled by the lip!
In mush and the most common non perfect surf there it the technique called ‘pumping the board’. It’s like making a bicycle move forward by shoving your body forward constantly to simply shove the ‘bike along without pedaling. Pumping the board it the same idea.
“ some speed down the line by going up and down the wave “
Up and down the wave and not rail to rail – yup - The amount of ‘wobble’ (soon to become a controlled rapid slightly up, drop slightly down, slightly up, drop slightly down depending on steepness) does help get some speed up to allow you to try and make sections. This technique can lead to a manic surf style which is completely dominated by constantly slaloming the surfboard up and down the face !
Styling smoothly rail to rail is for good sized glassy surf of three to eight foot faces plus – yum. Rail to rail does not yield speed – every time you change direction you loose speed. If you do a sharp change of direction you should be snapping back into the steepest part of the wave to ‘re-drop’ and go again.
Getting to out run and turn back into the wave yup – no worries there as long as you have the skill to complete the turn and the speed to carry you through be it from manic pumping or a superb wave.
There, how does all that sound to y’all ?
Cor, I just blew my brain