Progress Checkpoint- 7 weeks after buying the 8ft board
Girlfriends lost to surfing:1
Underground board dealers:
I have this friend of a friend of another friend that had a board to sell when I went to a shop, and it turns out to be my first board ever! A Bruce Jones Retro Fish surfboard, with the best shape ever! It had a traction pad! leash! and Fins! The WHOLE WHOPPER! I was soo excited to test it out, i took it out that evening!
I couldn't stand up on this midgets surfboard! how the HELL am I supose to stand on this!? My feet go WHERE?!? When am I gona catch a wave!?
Lucky for me that following week Doheney saw 3-4ft waves which would be great for me to learn on. Slow big waves that would allow plenty of movement on a smaller board. I soon discovered I was too far back, and i had to start archign my back to keep from pearling(which seemed to be my new favorite move). Too far forward and I would like to taste salt water please, too far back and i think i could just sleep here.
I FOUND THE PERFECT SPOT! My chin was to rest over the emblem taht the surfboard had! its the perfect spot! So I learned how to catch waves on the small 6'6 board. I went to try to stand now. One small step for surfers, one giant leap for the international surfing peoples. I stood up, and NEVER had i gone so fast on a surfboard! It was a 4ft wave on my backside(right) and I was going so fast I was soo happy! I was loosing my balance and my board going infront of me as i kept on yelling WOOHOOOOOOO! I took the next day off due to personal clean my room vacation day.
Warning, i do suck so bare with. HOWEVER there is a really cool part in the video where i fall with another guy syncronized.
surfboard came with a leash that had a key pouch! HOW FRIGN SWEET!