by jb987 » Fri Jul 03, 2009 3:30 am
by tree4 » Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:49 am
by isaluteyou » Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:45 pm
by torben » Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:59 pm
by drowningbitbybit » Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:33 pm
by IB_Surfer » Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:57 pm
by phillwilson » Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:33 am
by paulyoffshore » Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:53 pm
by Lomax » Fri Jul 10, 2009 3:12 am
drowningbitbybit wrote:Stand up.
by mart8235 » Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:04 pm
by jb987 » Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:18 am
by smilelifeisgood » Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:12 pm
I learned it this way. As the wave start to lift the board, arch your back, press your toes into the board ( if board is long enough). Then as you see the nose is not digging in, chest down on the board to get board to accelerate, a few more paddle strokes, and jump into the surfers stance. Catch the wave at 90 Degree.
You get through the critical point by arching your back. That is a temporary shift of centre of gravity aft.
Do not move aft on the board. You balance the board to find your position. Lie flat on the board, arms hanging into the water, vertical down. Nose of board 3 fingers above the water. Make a mark where your nose is. Keep that position ( always??? ).
Staying in the balanced position, you get more glide from the board and can catch the waves further out. Do not forget to paddle with power and determination once you go for a wave.
This is for a board around 8 feet. My experience as a learner. 3 seasons.
An additional reason may bee that your board does not have enough nose rocker, and / or that the surf is not of good quality, but more like plunging beach break.
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