Heres a little example of that i'm after If anyone has ever written anything similar or about why they surf or why people surf in general or know of any peices please post them here or link them or e-mail them to me. Its all part of my dissertation research in order to back up the drive behind the surfig community and their desire to risk their own heath for surfing.
If you can also includethe author or where it can be found so the relevent aknoledgemenks and references can be made by me.
Example: Quote from Lester Spears in the Woola Euro surf champs program 2004.
There used to be an advertisement with the slogan ‘only a surfer knows the feeling’. To a certain extent that still holds true today despite the rise of new ‘extreme’ sports there’s something about a surfer, a board and the waves. It’s a timeless image that catches on something in us all. I’ve never met anyone who wasn’t blown away by the sight of a clean wave well ridden. And that’s the beauty of surfing, its that simple. No matter what level of surfing you’re talking about, whether it’s a 12 year old grommet in tiny surf or a seasoned professional in big waves they’re both chasing the same thing. A clean wave well ridden.
The thing is, no matter how well you have ridden it, or think you have ridden it, you know you could have been better, should have been better and next time will be better. That’s what drives us, the search for perfection in ourselves and in waves. We might never find it but it’s the searching that’s important.”