Help In closeouts
okay so i keep forgetting my password and having to make new usernames. Before this i was shereflectslove, and before that sweatthesalt, and before that i forget but i was something else. anyway point is you guys know of me, hopefully haha. anyway
so i dont usually get the pleasure to surf barrels, but whenever it does start barreling, at the spot i surf, its right over about a foot of water ontop of rock reef. and the last time i pulled in, i didnt make it, and i got tossed straight onto dry reef on my head, and had to get my head glued. haha. i surf this spot whenever its breaking (natural bridges, santa cruz), and whever it starts barreling right next to that shelf reef, i always want to pull in, but im always scared that if i do i wont make it out. ive had some really close calls.
point is, i was watching some guy, and he pulled intoa closout barrel right over the shallow ass part that breaks right onto dry reef, and i thought to myself "oh hes gonna eat poop", but somehow the wave collapsed on him and he popped up pretty much right where it closed out on him. he didnt get dragged over the reef at all, like i did. so i was wondering how the hell did he do this??? how did he manage to not get thrown like i did? i know you can jump off the board and try to dive under the wave in closeouts, but that can only be done in deeper water. this literally breaks almost on dry reef. and he didnt jump off his board either he held on all the way.
so how do you not eat xxxxx on closeout barrels??