a few years ago I read "pipe dreams" by kelly slater... thought it was ok but nothing special. went on to read a few "how to" type books once I'd started surfing more regularly... all fine but nothing to write home about... but I just HAD to tell you about this fab book I just finished reading. My new nextdoor neighbour (some ironman competitor and fitness fanatic who has a gazillion books on every sport imaginable ) lent it to me - it's called "Eddie would Go" and it's about the life of Eddie Aikau, the legendary hawaiian hero/lifeguard/big wave surfer and it's written by Stuart Holmes Coleman. I literally couldn't put it down - seriously. I was gripped from start to finish - it was more than just a fanascinating insight into the history of hawaiian surfing and the life of Eddie Aikau - it was totally inspirational reading about him and his achievements despite problems and setbacks, and all at such a young age... some of it even made me cry I can't remember the last book I read which captivated me like this! I was engrossed from start to finish... and it made me want to go back to Hawaii so desperately
I wondered whether anyone else had read any other surf-related books and could recommend a good one?