and to piggyback, my brother in law and I surf baja about once a month, his go to board is a 7'4" x 2 3/4 x 21 funboard. It was made as a wave catcher with perfromance in mind: deep single concave to a V on tail to hold up, very flat rocker for uber glide , rounded pin tail to tuck in. I've seen him on overhead and a half 9ft faces and he makes all the drops. He doesn't shred, far from it, but he does fun cutbacks and tucks into barrels with it. The board is an Eberly, the dude has been shaping forever and he scored on that one. The only drawback is when we get caught inside I make it out first, he has to find a channel for that board. I've used it before and loved the ease of catching waves and had a blast on it, I prefer shortboards but if not I think I would be a mall rider.
Be carefull of the chinese made board with no bottom contour and weird rockers, they don't glide, always trust your local shaper.
