Surfing frustration

[Hoolio]

I'm 39, moved from UK to Sydney last year and took up surfing in November. Absolutely love it despite huge amount of time under water rather than on a wave. Had a couple of lessons, bought a 9'1" Fireball (I was told longboard would be the best way to get up and running quickly) and get out 2-3 times a week. The problem is I don't seem to be progressing very fast - either waves are too big, too small or masses of surfers out. I am maybe over cautious of irritating better surfers and spend much time getting out of their way. I still find it tricky to catch the wave in the first place - seem to end up on the crest with nose sticking out in the air before planting it and taking another swim. When I do catch a wave and stand it all feels like a frenzy - when I watch other longboarders they appear to have a lot of time and look very chilled. Anyway - am determined to get there and will be sticking with it. Not sure anyone can help, I know it is time in the water that counts, just needed to vent my frustration but if there are any hints and tips out there they are always welcome.

[drowningbitbybit]

Hmmm... sounds familiar....
I moved from the UK to Sydney last year too

I'd been surfing in the UK for a while, but I was only ever 'competent'. Since moving to Sydney (lots of reasons, but surf being the big one - dont tell the Mrs...) Ive found the waves to be surprisingly difficult compared to UK waves. Partly because they're so much more powerful, but also because the lack of tide means you tend to get a short ride compared to the UK.
Also, compared to the UK, the waves tend to be big (not great for learning) or too small - the characteristics of the beach breaks means they dont tend to work on smallish wave, so it can be a bit all or nothing.

And then there's the crowds!
The city beaches are a shocker in summer. But you only have to go a little way out of sydney and you can find a beach to yourself
Where are you surfing? Picking the right spot is essential to progress, and may mean trips to the north or south to find somewhere a bit more suitable than barrelling Bronte on a summer sunday

[twerked]

try paddling into waves farther out, and popping up sooner. where are you laying on the board? if you're too far back it makes it difficult

[Hoolio]

Drowningbitbybit - good to hear it isn't just me! Tend to be at Freshie, occasionally Curly, Manly...have had another UK surfer also tell me waves are very different here and agree on crowds. As I'm not in complete control I avoid going out when there are too many swimmers around - would hate to smack into some kid with my board. Twerked - position on the board could be part of the issue as can certainly notice if I get it right (rare!) plus now you mention it I do wait a while before I pop up...think that's a hang over from the lessons and breaking the whole process down.

[drowningbitbybit]

Tend to be at Freshie, occasionally Curly, Manly...

Ah, so the crowded northern beaches. Im down in the crowded southern beaches
As Im sure you've worked out, first thing in the morning tends to be the best times for surfing in these parts (especially in summer) so dawn sessions before the crowds are the way to go.

And positioning plus timing is everything. The rest is details.

[Heathen]

it seems a certain stage you get too myself and my friend are both at the same point having trouble catching waves and when to pop up it can be frustrating I have some really bad days I feel like I am going back wards.

but I always try to keep positive and also look for any small improvements like for myself the last 4 surfs i have noticed how much my paddling endurance has improved which i am really happy with.

i think why this part is so frustrating I feel so close to actually riding the faces but catching the wave and poping up and the right time seems so hard.

but one of these days I will do it and get a decent wave face.

[tree4]

Believe me, the first time you get the green face and actually drop/glide down it (even if its a little 2 footer) you will forget all of the bad days.

[RJD]

they appear to have a lot of time and look very chilled.

It takes an awfull lot of time in the water and effort to get to that point!

I'm in my 4th year of surfing and am about there at times, still have bad sessions!

Concentrate on the basics, paddling with the board trimmed right. You wont catch a wave unless your paddling properly.

[danno]

It is weird because sometimes because conditions change every time you go out and often change when you are surfing. Position on the board is huge! Sounds like bigger stronger faster breaking waves than what your used to. Go out further catch them earlier. Some days you will have to be as far forward as possible and paddle like crazy with head down to get on a wave, do the same thing the next time and you will pearl like crazy. You didn't mention pearling that, I remember ,so you are probably too far back on the board. Being way back on the board like that ensures that by the time you actually catch the wave it is so late that it makes your makes your popup more difficult and rushed . The best days I have ever had on a longboard were when I fought to get on the wave super early almost pearling the nose I was so far forward , cleared the nose and popped up quick, then its all face and no drama, by the time the wave starts tightening to break you are where you want to be and thats when things get really fun. Sometimes reading waves can be hard, I feel that I learn more every time I go out. Some waves are just easier to catch than others. Some days I will be out and it looks like nice swell and I am paddling like crazy and getting almost nothing an then some guy comes and makes it look easy, and I am like, whats the deal. Sometimes its because I weigh fifty llbs more and have to do something just a little different to have the same result. Other times it was because the more experienced surfer was watching for a high spot in the wave (we have choppy conditions often so very often one part seems to break way before the others. This can be really useful to catch this early breaking part as entry to the rest of the wave. This guy was killing it and I felt super frustrated, until I figured out what he was doing. The other thing I learned from a buddy was the importance of paddling early somedays, you will be convinced a wave is uncatchable, but it will blow your mind if you have built up enough paddle speed and inertia you will skim and get it but if your way back on the board you have no chance. If you pearl like crazy on your next few sessions don't feel bad you are just dialing it in. If you see yourself pearling while your still paddling for it lift your head up and sometimes that will pull it out, then pop up fast. Another subtle thing I have seen some guys do is kick their heels to their butt at the last second while they are paddling like mad, I haven't really done it yet but supposedly it slightly changes your center of gravity and helps you get in early. I am amazed how easy some people make it look on tough days. Also if everybody else out there is on short boards you may be at a difficult spot for the longboard learning curve. Best of luck to you. have fun!

[b123]

Just remember that even the times when you head out and don't catch anything, you still learn and get better from that trip.

[themathteacher]

I will give you the advise you need to hear, not what you want to hear.

If you are not that good and go to the lineup three things happen: 1) Better surfers can tell and will snag you, 2) you will not catch waves because you are not ready and 3) you will build on you frustration and keep having a bad time surfing.

To become a better surfer you have to develop your popup and board glide. The better you are at popping up the easier it will be to catch waves, the more glide you get out of your board the less waves you will miss. So, the solution? Go back to basics. Here is how you can tell if you are ready to go in the lineup: go out about waist/chest high, catch some whitewash. If you can stand up 10 out of 10 times fluidly then you are ready for the next lesson, if not keep trying.

Next, don't blame the wave, don't think it's too small or too mushy, all it means is that you don't have enough glide and speed going. The board has to be flat on the surface, when you paddle it should glide effortlessly, especially a 9'1" board, if the nose is sticking up then you are stalling, and if you are too far foward you will pearl, balance.

Lastly, is it a 2+1 setup? If so, take off the sidebites, they drag a little, it will give you more glide at the expence of a little performance, but since you aren't catching waves I rather you ride waves than try to perform.

Try it, report back

[gutterball]

If you are living in sydney its never too big or too small, there is always somewhere thats the right size for you.
You just have to learn more about breaks in sydney, the ocean and how swells get into little nooks and bays.

Once you learn more about surf spots you will be able to hunt down the size and type of waves you are after, almost no matter of the conditions.

[drowningbitbybit]

If you are living in sydney its never too big or too small, there is always somewhere thats the right size for you.

The entirely flat ocean outside my window would suggest otherwise...

[RJD]

mmm 5m swell in for tomorrow, dbb you picked the wrong island....

[drowningbitbybit]

mmm 5m swell in for tomorrow, dbb you picked the wrong island....

5mm swell here

[Aloha]

mmm 5m swell in for tomorrow, dbb you picked the wrong island....

5mm swell here

Tell me about it.....

Hoolio,

I wouldn't recommend Curly if you struggle. It's not really a good wave to learn on, as it gets quite sucky, which is great when you are an experienced shortboarder but not really the best place for a beginner longboarder. You'll want a wave that breaks a little fatter to get used to catching waves. Collaroy is a great option for longboards, but needs a bit of swell to get going, there are a few other spots but I won't mention them on a public forum.

Freshie is probably the best spot to learn takeoffs but because it's a closeout 99% of the time you'll need to travel once you want to learn trimming and turns. Avoid it on weekends, especially sunny ones.

I'm not sure about your water experience, but it sounds like you only started at age 38/39. You may have missed out on what a lot of surfers did whilst growing up and that's just body surfing and bodyboarding.

If you don't' have a lot of ocean experience then I really recommend ditching the longboard for the time being and trying body surfing and body boarding just to get the knowledge of where to be on the wave to catch a wave. Body surfing will also teach you that wipe outs aren't that bad either. It's also a great workout and will probably open your eyes in terms of your water fitness.

I don't mean body surfing the shore break either, I mean on a proper swell getting out the back with the board riders. But please don't do this alone, if you aren't a strong swimmer or don't have the knowledge of what to do when caught in rips. (Actually no surfer should be out the back if they aren't a confident swimmer as leg ropes do snap)

As for bodyboarding try doing it without fins and paddling with your arms instead. Once you have learned catching waves get on the surfboard again. Paddling isn't the most important part of catching a wave, it's positioning. You can even catch waves without paddling at all, just by being at the right spot on the wave.

Most of all body surfing is bloody fun! And that's the whole point of surfing.

[gutterball]

If you are living in sydney its never too big or too small, there is always somewhere thats the right size for you.

The entirely flat ocean outside my window would suggest otherwise...

I got waves yesterday on a mal..around 1ft -2ft lefts although somewhat peaky windswell.
Its just a matter of looking at the swell magnets.
Im not saying it doesnt get crap a lot im saying there is ussually something around somewhere if you know Sydney and all the breaks and how to read swell direction, and know where to go.
If its huge you have more options..

Actually looking at the same place today would be good for learning imo..

[crepuscular]

hahahah, funny you said you you try not to hit some kid...

to me, I reckon they kinda deserved to get hit, since they are not within the flags, and the life guards just keep on yelling @ them to stay between the flag... swimming between the flag is not just keep them safe from taking out to the sea from the rips, but also from surfers and body boarders