We got there around 9am and drove straight into the parking lot. Usually you have to wait. There was a layer of fog that stayed the whole day. But we had good waves and beer, so it didn't matter. We went out of about two hours in the morning and the waves were nicely breaking. Consistently about 4-5ft with long lines. I caught the longest rides I'd ever had.
Then we sat on the beach by a fire, had a few beers, ate lunch and went back out again for another couple hours. Needless to say I'm sore today, cuz I usually don't surf that much in one day. But it was well worth it.
Just thought I'd share since it was a bit of a milestone for me. Having a full, good surfing day with not many wipeouts.
it was totally ur day... since the last time that u surfed