ditto here with motor bikes. I raced for so many years here in California. If I'd found surfing sooner, maybe I would have spent far less money,had equal thrills, and be physically fit. I shudder sometimes about the amount of money spent racing. Even with bikes and less competitive classes, there is no such thing as "cheap racing." After racing a few years in the beginning, I found I was riding the street less and less. Not only was it boring, it was not any where near as safe as the race track. I continued to commute 65 miles round trip on my large BMWs, but that is not quite the same as street riding. Eventually, I had to give that up due to health problems. Slow forward 5 years and I'm a surfer! I get the same thrill from surfing at a fraction of the cost and it is healthier for me! Can't beat that. Recently, I was sick for two months (echo from the past) and could not surf or exercise. About 5 days ago I was well enough to begin exercising again and my goal it to get fit enough to hit the surf again.
Thanks for the note about the underside of the boards you are making at the moment. It is really fun to see what people are crafting. A gear head buddy was looking at my boards a couple months ago. He said, "I've been looking at these boards and it doesn't seem like there is too much to them." I responded indignantly, "Them are fighting words and this particular board was made by a world renowned shaper!" LOL!!