This isn't really about a trip of mine, but a good suggestion for something to read.
"Walking on Water by Andy Martin"
This is a great book about Andy, who somehow managed to convince The Times in London to pay for him to fly to Oahu and write a newspaper report on the Triple Crown.
In it he tells about going from surfing whitewater in Newquay cornwall, to paddling out at Sunset beach (with disasterous consequences).
It's written in a very funny style and has lots of little anecdotes such as whilst waiting for his plane in London, he went on a 'design your own business card machine' and made some cards "Andy Martin, Surfing Correspondent, The Times, London" - when he arrived in the states, he hadn't got his visa sorted properly, but they let him in on the strength of his business card!!!
It's a gripping read and has things that anyone who has ever tried surfing can relate to.
It is available on Amazon.co.uk - I don't know if you can get it in the states, but I think it's still worth the read.
Worth taking a look at!